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A cautionary Tale of Two Metals - and a bolt that pull out after just 15 years

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

applewood,

So everyone had good positive comments. I'd agree the failure cause could be coming from several different situations. I don't see serious galvanic corrosion on your stud. Since you have been bolting for some time, you likely know a lot of this.

I just saw your postmortem...That is a funky taper and suggests a poor piece of hardware

From a construction point of view - and this is anecdotal - Red Heads used to have a fairly low consistent quality. The nubs wouldn't catch and the sleeves wouldn't always allow the stud to slip and lock up when you tightened down the nut. That's in concrete. Ideal conditions, power hammer drill, consistent medium.

With a Red Head a precise depth is best, with a Rawl 5 piece Powers specs ask for one bolt diameter deeper hole than the bolt. Freeze-thaw cycles can push the bolt out of the hole when water inside and beneath that little void pocket expands.

It's important to not drill an oversize or out of round hole. But doing so can be difficult on a poor stance; especially at the start of the hole. I see elliptical holes in the local Red Rocks sandstone.

Then, as mentioned, there are voids, spalling and other conditions which you sometimes don't notice till you get the hole started.

A clean (blown out-brushed out) hole makes for a happy placement.

Sometimes a small chip will shear off inside the hole as you hammer in the bolt and this can hamper the sleeve from wedging completely when you have open threads like your photo, but in tightening down it "feels" OK. Then a later freeze-thaw cycle can break down/move that chip and you have a loose placement

Other threads here you will see a major cause of bolt failure is over tightening.

Try not to mix metals... A big deal in Limestone, porous rock, or in areas of high snowfall or near salt water ...Not such a big issue in Eastern WA granite, but why start out doing something less than the current standard?

Statistically, you are going to have a bad bolt once in a while.

If you are going about pulling fasteners out you might consider a set of "tuning forks" I made mine out of tile chisels; a machine shop milled slots for me.

So...is your area in season at the same time as Smiths Rocks? Maybe a road trip has my name on it... :-)

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
J. Albers wrote: Agreed that Kevin and Fixed Pin have admirably done a lot of work (also need to give a shout to the ASCA). However there are still a ton of routes out there in the SPlatte with either Leepers and quarters or simply badly, badly rusted early generation 3/8" plated bolts. I know because I have been climbing on them the last two seasons in the areas that I frequent. Obviously replacing the quarters are the priority, but from the pics that I have seen, when pulled those early gen 3/8" bolts can be really rotten on the inside. Considering that I frequent these routes (and rarely see anyone else), I figure that I should be doing my part (its just time and effort for me because I already have all the required gear for doing replacements). Cheers.
Let me know if you need another pair of dirty hands, a drill, or a belay.
J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
nicelegs wrote: Let me know if you need another pair of dirty hands, a drill, or a belay.
Will do Legs, I appreciate the offer. Cheers.
applewood · · Tonasket, WA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 16,382

Thanks Thomas for the contribution. Good information and reminders.

I've been conscious of not mixing metals this century, but I can't guarantee what I did last century! I also make sure not to tighten the nuts too much (firmly seated but not too hard after that).

As for the season here - yep probably a lot like Smith but more widely ranging crags in this region (check out "Okanogan" on MP) - from about 1000' to 5200' (mostly Gneiss and Granite), so longer. I was climbing on Jan 3rd this year, but thats a bit unusual. Best season in the valley is late Feb thru May and then again Sept - Nov. The valley can get very hot in mid summer, but I've had fun getting early starts and quitting when the sun hits - also there are rattle snakes in many areas - but generally not above 3500'. Contact me if you ever come this way I'd be glad to give you the tour.

C Miller · · CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 87,830

Applewood, it would be quite interesting if you sawed the bolt in half to see the extent of the corrosion.

Jburton · · Ogden · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Damn, you beat the shit outta that rock!! If you're gonna be yankin bolts, learn to do it the right way, with a funkness.

applewood · · Tonasket, WA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 16,382

C Miller, I'm not sure there'd be any corrosion on the bolt that pulled, but on the one that snapped easily (and which showed darkening where it sheared off) might be more interesting. I didn't take a pic of that one...

applewood · · Tonasket, WA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 16,382

LCC-Climber - the rock didn't get hit by the hammer at all, but a crater flaked off around the hole when the bolt pulled (which as the original post says was an unintended consequence of trying to snap off the bent bolt - using the claw for the final bit so I wouldn't hit the rock...).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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