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Static Rope for Top Rope Anchor

Justin Headley · · Tucson · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 622
D.Buffum wrote: Out of curiosity, what can you do with a static line that you cannot do with webbing in the context of building a TR anchor?
One thing I can think of is making an "instructor tether." This is described in the AMGA Single Pitch Manual Falconguide. It allows you to access the top rope master point or just rap down. You use the static rope to set up a toprope anchor that extends over an edge, but with the extra rope, you put a knot in it and drape it over the edge too. You then rap down that line with something like a Gri-Gri, and then transition over to rapping down the toprope when you get to it.
Alex Bury · · Ojai, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,376
martinharris wrote:10 mill is overkill AMGA uses 7 mill with a bowline
Yikes, no way. If you take an AMGA SPI course you will be told 10mm and up.
Chris Borg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the replays. would either of these be a good first climbing rope?

backcountry.com/beal-edling…

backcountry.com/edelweiss-e…

jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882
Chris Borg wrote:Thanks for all the replays. would either of these be a good first climbing rope? backcountry.com/beal-edling… backcountry.com/edelweiss-e…
Either would make a fine first rope for top-roping and leading.

Jim
Roman G · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 205

Chris,

I sent u a pm not sure if you got it, but for peterskill I suggest you get 100 foot plus static rope. I have a 60 footer and it's not enough for some of the anchors. Get a 100 ft or 120 ft and you'll be set. The approach is short so you don't have to worry about the weight of the 100ft plus static.

Meme Guy · · Land of Runout Slab · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 325
Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
martinharris wrote:10 mill is overkill AMGA uses 7 mill with a bowline
Presumably this is a troll, but just to set the record straight: I instruct AMGA SPI courses and assessments, and this is categorically untrue. Carry on.
Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

Wait...10mm and up?

I don't always TR but when I do I use 50ft of 8mm. Or 20ft of 7mm.

Am I gonna die?

jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882
Ryan Watts wrote:Wait...10mm and up? I don't always TR but when I do I use 50ft of 8mm. Or 20ft of 7mm. Am I gonna die?
20 ft of 7mm (a cordellette) is fine for an anchor as long as it it built correctly. A thicker line is just more durable over time and might make set up a little easier. It makes sense for guides to want something burlier for their specific uses. AMGA standards-- while good to know-- are overkill for many situations in recreational climbing.

Jim
Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
jim.dangle wrote: 20 ft of 7mm (a cordellette) is fine for an anchor as long as it it built correctly. A thicker line is just more durable over time and might make set up a little easier. It makes sense for guides to want something burlier for their specific uses. AMGA standards-- while good to know-- are overkill for many situations in recreational climbing. Jim
Of course 20' of 7mm (aka a "cordalette") can be fine in many situations. I was responding to the blanket assertions / implications that 10mm static is always overkill, and that the AMGA advocates the use of 7mm cord all the time. Neither is true. What all AMGA courses teach is the concept of application: Selecting the right tool or technique in the right place and at the right time. There are no one size fits all solutions in any of the AMGA training curriculums.
Sean Brady · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 125

Please don't use a bowline, it's a death knot. Many "accidents" have resulted from the use of a bowline.

I know that this is flame bait, and lots of people are going to disagree, however allow me to preemptively tell you that they are wrong. Dont use a bowline.

Flame away.

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665

I agree with the posters above. EMS or other climbing shop and buy X length of 10 mm static rope. I have a 90ft static line I use for tr anchors and have never needed more than that. I started out using tubular webbing but found it to be a pain in the butt and waste of money.

Steve Jones · · Fayetteville WV, · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 105

I use webbing, since it is lighter, but static line anchors are bulky but fine. They are really tough and less likely than webbing to get chewed on if you leave them up for a while. Regarding the dynamic rope, it's OK, but get a 60 meter. You could go with a 10 mil rope as well. More importantly, see if you can find a deal on a bi-pattern. Because the middle mark is woven into the sheath, it makes setting up a top rope much safer and won't wear off. Here,s one (although I like your first brand better): backcountry.com/sterling-bi…

You took a course and you're asking questions. So, you're smart about making the gym to rock transition carefully.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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