TRAD ETHICS

Adam Burch wrote:Wow. Does anyone on MP ever get laid?

If you get laid on the first date AFTER buying her drinks is it a pink point? I would think you would have to seal the deal without the aid of alcohol to legitimately call it a Red Point attempt.

pull the gear for true send. placing gear is the hard part a lot of times.

I don't know the term for it but if you are doing anything other than hangdogging the shit out of a route and then downgrading it on the Internet you are doing it wrong and do not understand the true nature of climbing.

c'mon now. he just wanted feedback on the style... its probably a tad more difficult to fire in those key placements, especially if they're blind ones or strenuous.

It's not a gray area. Either you did it totally on your own... Or you had some help from others... or yourself earlier. Pre placed gear makes it easier.

Why is this so hard? Not complicated. Climbers have become so ghey.

What if you climb a route with all pre-placed(BOMBER!) cams, clipped the rope in, use a swami belt, and have the belay end of the rope attached to a pack of sled dogs running away from the crag?

Does it change if I add a belayer?

Edit:
Oh yeah...99% of the climbers you meet either online or in person will fall in one of two categories. They don't care about your red, pink or brown point and think you're missing the whole point of climbing. OR, they don't care about your red, pink, or brown point but want to tell you all about theirs.

The other 1% gets paid to care about the difference between pink point, and red point.

Eliot Augusto wrote: Edit: Oh yeah...99% of the climbers you meet either online or in person will fall in one of two categories. They don't care about your red, pink or brown point and think you're missing the whole point of climbing. OR, they don't care about your red, pink, or brown point but want to tell you all about theirs. The other 1% gets paid to care about the difference between pink point, and red point.

Haha, well said.

Wait, there's a brown point too?

facepalm.gov

Eliot Augusto wrote: Edit: Oh yeah...99% of the climbers you meet either online or in person will fall in one of two categories. They don't care about your red, pink or brown point and think you're missing the whole point of climbing. OR, they don't care about your red, pink, or brown point but want to tell you all about theirs. The other 1% gets paid to care about the difference between pink point, and red point.

After 4 months of climbing, in Boulder, you've got 99% of the climbers you meet figured out and squared away into a couple categories? That's awesome.

^^^
Usually means he had it all squared away before that too.

Hank Caylor wrote: After 4 months of climbing, in Boulder, you've got 99% of the climbers you meet figured out and squared away into a couple categories? That's awesome.

Tell me when was the last time you lost sleep over a close friend not RPing a route?

I have had very limited exposure to other trad climbers, and every single one of them I have met didn't give a lick about rating or how a route was sent. Converse to that, most other parties I have seen at sport crags and the gym that aren't currently climbing mostly stood in a circle and waited their turn to tell everyone else about that .10d they onsighted. Or, that .12 project they've been working on.

As for the online portion of my statement, I sincerely doubt a majority of the people on MP, rc.com, or any other climbing forum would give a damn if someone posted about an onsight below .14.

@Tony B:
Don't you know already? I have to categorize everyone. We've already had this discussion.

I think I just brownpointed this thread.

This thread has been brown pointed for some time now.

Eliot Augusto wrote: I have had very limited exposure to other trad climbers

Well, no shit. You are arguing with Hank freaking Caylor and you have no idea who he is.

reboot wrote: Well, no shit. You are arguing with Hank freaking Caylor and you have no idea who he is.

I'm not arguing. He made a point, and it was correct. 99% of the climbers I have met, have fallen into that category. In short, you care about how you send a route or you don't. I never took up a contrary position, and therefore its not an argument. And I admitted ignorance. Jump to a few more conclusions while you're at it.

Elliot, good observation for a new climber!

Eliot Augusto wrote: Tell me when was the last time you lost sleep over a close friend not RPing a route? I have had very limited exposure to other trad climbers, and every single one of them I have met didn't give a lick about rating or how a route was sent. Converse to that, most other parties I have seen at sport crags and the gym that aren't currently climbing mostly stood in a circle and waited their turn to tell everyone else about that .10d they onsighted. Or, that .12 project they've been working on. As for the online portion of my statement, I sincerely doubt a majority of the people on MP, rc.com, or any other climbing forum would give a damn if someone posted about an onsight below .14. @Tony B: Don't you know already? I have to categorize everyone. We've already had this discussion.

i like trad climbing. i like sport climbing. i like hearing about what my friends send. i love lamp.

I think "brown point" needs a definition, and not the one that relates to how much hot, red chile I ate last night.

When I'm climbing over my level, and it makes me feel better to add pro every two feet, and then I accidentally end up putting feet on my cams, and then to get over the crux I crawl on my belly and cry like a little girl, and then I end up leaving gear because I missed it on th eway down and was too terrified to climb back up and get it, and then I go to the bar and brag about how awesome I did on that route that was completely sandbagged and really ought to get a 5.7: THAT is a brown point.

Edited to add I agree with that guy ^, I love lamp, too.

Stoya loves trad ethics and lamp.

stoya

Bill Wa wrote:Elliot, good observation for a new climber!

Sorry Hank, but if Ellenor is taking Eliot's side, the debate's over.

James Piotrowski wrote:I think "brown point" needs a definition, and not the one that relates to how much hot, red chile I ate last night. When I'm climbing over my level, and it makes me feel better to add pro every two feet, and then I accidentally end up putting feet on my cams, and then to get over the crux I crawl on my belly and cry like a little girl, and then I end up leaving gear because I missed it on th eway down and was too terrified to climb back up and get it, and then I go to the bar and brag about how awesome I did on that route that was completely sandbagged and really ought to get a 5.7: THAT is a brown point. Edited to add I agree with that guy ^, I love lamp, too.

Having made it up, I get dibs on definition. And I vote for routes your friends drag you up that is way above your level and you shit your pants the entire way up.