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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

Hurry! Hurry! Clear Creek Canyon ice is in fat! I soloed Beer Garden, Coors Lite and Mickey's Big Mouth this weekend. All were in prime conditions. And while not the most challenging ice climbs, I felt really fortunate to be ice climbing 15 minutes from my house in a t shirt. CCC ice has been a fickle thing to tick off of my Colorado Bucket lost, but it was definitely worth the wait.

Highly recommended is the second pitch, "Exit Crack" variation to Coors Light. It was in fat ice conditions with a difficulty of WI3 M3-. And while it does turn into a bit of a slog, I was able to climb the drainage all the way up to the canyon rim.

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Sunday Silk..

Silk.
Silky.

Rob Cotter · · Silverthorne, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 240

The Fang looks healed all right, climb at yer own risk...

Did Resurrection Saturday, mank, tat and choss all in one epic pitch!

RobCC on Resurrection. Photo: Janette Heung.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Nice Cor!! hahah all a couloir climb now?

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Despite the ultra snowy, and ominous fog…
It was in the usual shape of a bit of everything (rock,snow,ice,mixed)
No matter what, it's going to be spicy - don't fall - somewhere along the way. Like usual.

Good fun though, and no wind! We didn't start climbing until 12:20 or so.
It was good cold temps that day, so the ice was not so drippy.
And yes, I did place screws!

Alton Richardson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 170

Hard COR!

George Barnes · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 175

Here's what the Fang looked like last weekend (2-9-2014). The crack picture is taken from the top of The Thang.

If anybody found a pair of black mitts (Marmot?) up there, my partner would love to have them back.

The back of the Fang (2-9-2014).

The Fang on 2-9-14.

Paul Richer · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 15

Does anyone have information on conditions for Rifle?

Rob Griz · · Frisco · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 2,151

Climbed Rifle 2 weeks ago and it was about as good as it gets, including the dirt top-outs.

coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

Ice in rifle is still good, but we got rained on heavily on Sunday. Dirt, sticks, and rocky topouts in Rifle, gotta love them

Rob Griz wrote:Climbed Rifle 2 weeks ago and it was about as good as it gets, including the dirt top-outs.
Noah McKelvin · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,500

Fang was fat and hacked. WI4+ condition? There is a good fracture line at the top that acts as a good foothold. Actually though, It's healed a little in the past week and a half. Seemed safe. Use your own judgement.

Photo by Jason Kaplan

Ze Fang.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130
Noah8000 wrote:Fang was fat and hacked. WI4+ condition? There is a good fracture line at the top that acts as a good foothold. Actually though, It's healed a little in the past week and a half. Seemed safe. Use your own judgement. Photo by Jason Kaplan
Thanks Noah. Did you get a chance to get on the Dez? Is that also hacked out?
Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Oh Noah… I tried to tell you to go get it while it was good, but you said no way!
4+hacked? Probably wasn't worth the effort now… ;D

Noah McKelvin · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,500
Cor wrote:Oh Noah… I tried to tell you to go get it while it was good, but you said no way! 4+hacked? Probably wasn't worth the effort now… ;D

Ah come on guys. I'm a puss when it comes to this stuff. It was all about the waiting game for the last month and a half. Whether it's in WI4+ or WI6 condition, the route will leave you smiling. Alex Lowe was THE man! Dez is really hacked out as normal for this time of year. It's super fat and pretty wide. Cheers!
MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

I was super lucky to get on Ice Palace in Rifle last Thursday.
Super cool!!!

Ice Palace in Rifle.

seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

Vail Update:

so long as no snow falls there is a great trail up to the Firehouse area and another great trail, should say trench, up to Spiral Staircase and the Amphitheatre thanks to Princess Mia.

Everything was pretty damn fat. Firehouse was a little slushy but it was rather warm on 2/10. Spiral was good, Belfry was also great. The pencil is huge and the eraser has at least three decent lines on it. Didn't have a chance to get on anything in the amphitheatre but there's always next time.

Dezzi-unknown climber....is this you??? taken about 2-3pm on 2/11/14

Unknown climber on Designator, 2/11/14.

Fang/picture of fracture

Fang as of 2/11/2014.

Belfry Area

Backside of Eraser, 2/11/14.

Pencil.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

My partner and I are planning to get on Hidden Falls in Glenwood Canyon on our way back from Indian Creek this weekend. Has anyone been on the falls lately? If so, how's the climb? And also, how was the river crossing? Was it frozen enough to cross with dry feet?

Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10,406
The Blueprint Part Dank wrote:My partner and I are planning to get on Hidden Falls in Glenwood Canyon on our way back from Indian Creek this weekend. Has anyone been on the falls lately? If so, how's the climb? And also, how was the river crossing? Was it frozen enough to cross with dry feet?
I haven't heard anything super recent about Hidden but my guess it would be fine. It's been warm and rainy here since Saturday but it stays pretty cold in that north facing gully. Based on other climbs that are getting affected by the warm weather, it should be fun but may be getting soft. The crossing should be casual because the last I knew there was still a Tyrolean up by the power plant.
Steven N · · CO · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 80

Last Thursday, it was COLD(-7) but went to Hully gully anyway

1st pitch of Hully.

2nd pitch of Hully.

Ignacio · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 15

The Amphiteater area in Vail is still nice and fat. Rigid Designator is outstanding.

See below a picture of the top fracture on The Fang, just posting this since it looks larger than the ones I saw earlier (you can fit a fist or two in that crack). Be careful out there!

Horizontal structural fracture about 3/4 of the way up on The Fang.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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