Utah Ice Conditions, 2013 - 2014

The Cedarcicle on 1/9/2014:

The Cedarcicle on 1/9/2014

The big red bowl farther up the road had some ice too:

Big Red Bowl above Utah 14 on 1/9/2014

Bridal Veil Right & White Nightmare: both pitches on both routes are in fat condition. With the belay anchors exposed.

Here is a link to the pictures, I'll upload one when I have more time...
plus.google.com/photos/1168…

chadnuesmeyer wrote:Bridal Veil Right & White Nightmare: both pitches on both routes are in fat condition. With the belay anchors exposed. Here is a link to the pictures, I'll upload one when I have more time... plus.google.com/photos/1168…

Noticed the photos were taken yesterday. Only fools would be climbing in Provo Canyon right now. The avy danger is high and the bowls above are loaded - all the wind has caused some major snow movement. If you really want to get on something fart around on Stairway it has the least danger.

Here is a journal article on the Bridal Veil slide path:
arc.lib.montana.edu/snow-sc…

Here is a nice couple videos of one coming down White Nightmare and Bridal Veil:

youtube.com/watch?v=5wuVsgv…

youtube.com/watch?v=fOo2lwT…

How is Santaquin Canyon when the avy conditions are dangerous?? Thinking of heading down that way this week, but will avoid it if can be sketchy like Provo...

Backoff and Squashed Head can both hurl pretty good. Not as much potential mass as in Provo but enough to send ya hurling. Candlestick and ACT are safer and would be a preferred alternative though the trough leading up to them can be sketchy.

Allen Sanderson wrote: Noticed the photos were taken yesterday. Only fools would be climbing in Provo Canyon right now. The avy danger is high and the bowls above are loaded - all the wind has caused some major snow movement. If you really want to get on something fart around on Stairway it has the least danger. Here is a journal article on the Bridal Veil slide path: arc.lib.montana.edu/snow-sc…

To add to Allen's videos, here's the slide path in its entirety:


Where the two couloirs pinch down (out of view) is the top of Upper Bridal Veil falls.

So basically, you're climbing WI4 beneath a taller, wider version of the Y Couloir. Gulp. Wet avalanches are of particular concern on rapidly warming days.

Climbed Squashead today: the ice was cold, dry, and hard to protect . . . Backoff was great hero ice though. The anchors up and left on Backoff are a bit tricky to access since you have to traverse across bare rock, but the anchors just below the top out on the right also work well.

Thinking about heading to Joe's or Maple this weekend. Anybody have an update?

2 weeks ago in Maple: nothing on canyon road was in, nothing in box was in, the wet itchies required ~12' of dry tooling, and bowling ball was too thin protect. I'm curious if the new snow has had an effect.

I think there's been plenty of snow to get Maple going, problem has been the temps. I've been seeing temperatures in the 50s across the valley, which doesn't bode well for Maple. I'll see if I can get up there before the weekend though.

Micha and Hillary(?) finishing up backoff in Santaquin on 1/14/14.

Micha and Hillary on Backoff in Santaquin 1/14/14

Can somebody tell me the conditions on Malans, Willard, or anything northern Wasatch? Does Echo have ice?

what about the rest of santaquin?

Went up to maple on Monday, the road, left fork, and box canyon were either bare or to thin to climb. We still need more snow down there.

Just climbed Candelstick in Santaquin and it's in good condition right now. Took the right side and it felt steep (5+) but good screws and good sticks. The top out had a frozen rope on the far left, didn't bother with it, there was hollow ice for the last 15 feet that wouldn't hold a screw, but was good enough for hooking.

Backoff was super wet. Very very wet. We didn't get on ACT, but it's almost touching down. Some gentle swings and thigh squeezes could probably get you through the start of the pillar.

nice! thanks man

Finally got out to Maple this morning. Not much ice to climb. Probably won't be any until another storm system and a good melt/freeze pattern.

Driving from Moab got a good look at the Dirtcicle. It's fun just to see the evolution of it over the season, so here's my contribution to the time lapse.

I doubt anyone really cares about the Dirtcicle anymore, but here's a shot from today. It's looking pretty scuzzy.

Did Joe's this past weekend: both pitches of CCC were in when I left (fairly large group after we pulled off). The upper pitch fatter than I have ever seen it but, it was aerated ice - completely soft and white.

After that we headed over to T-Rex for some quick laps and burn - out.

Kris Kleinman - # TeamEasy - route: T-Rex

Climbed FMR couloir/gullie yesterday... There's a split across the WI4 pillar leading up to the FMR wall... It's somewhat healed... Still finished the lead but makes ya think!! Lots of water... Bring your goretex!

Funny how things change.
Climbed Santiquin on 1/23. Squash Head was super wet on the left side of the curtain and crazy unconsolidated chandeliers on the right.

Back Off was dry, hard and a bit brittle, especially the last 10M. Oh and there is about 8 feet of dry rock getting to the anchors on the left.
That being said it is HUGE.

Candlestick looks good. ATC and Angel aren't in.

The gate is locked down low and adds 20 to the walk. Haven't been down there is a few years so if this is the new norm please forgive me.