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best quick draws

jordand · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 100
dnoB ekiM wrote: Agree, the old express dogbones were the best on the market for the last 20 years. I even replaced the bones on my livewires (also way too stiff...even the long ones)with the petzl express (old style) bones. The new express bones are a downgrade in the design.
Won't they soften up a bit with use?
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

supposedly they designed them to be stiff, for easier clipping. unfortunately it makes them more prone to jamming the biner sideways in the bolt hanger. not exactly comforting to look down and see this...

Peter Jackson · · Rumney, NH · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 445
Locker wrote:Ovals on tied webbing.
Ha! I used to have a whole rack of those. Now I use BD wiregates on whatever dogbone sling I can get for a decent price.
frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

Lots of people mentioning the livewires, I've had some issues with the bolt end carabiner hanging up in a cross loaded position with those bones, which is an issue I never encountered with the old petzl spirit bones. Kind of want to change em out for a different bone.

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110
Locker wrote:Ovals on tied webbing.
Lol didn't even have to see the name to know who posted that. :P
Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804

BD Freewire. Inexpensive and work great.

blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Clipping a bolt. Then clipping a rope? Then yell take. It really doesn't matter.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Petzl Spirits and one of these (well I wish... haven't found any US retailer carrying these):

beccs · · Ontario Canada · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 200
doligo wrote:Petzl Spirits and one of these (well I wish... haven't found any US retailer carrying these):
I've seen that design before, it's nothing new.....but that biner wasn't intended for the bolt end of a quick draw.
Greg J · · Colorado · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0
doligo wrote:Petzl Spirits and one of these (well I wish... haven't found any US retailer carrying these):
Like one of these? amazon.com/Mad-Rock-Trigger…

And I wouldn't use that on the bolt end either...
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

^^^the photo above is from Kong literature, that biner was specifically designed for the bolt end of the draw, I thought... just google "Kong Panic".

Patrick Mulligan · · Reno, NV · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 995

WC Helium Quickdraws

PatCleary · · Boston, MA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

I'm a fan of the new Spirit Carabiners on the bolt end, new express draws, and Mad Rock ultralight wiregates. They just clip really nice.

Pat

Casey B · · Oakland, California · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

I just got one of the new Petzl Spirit bent gate 'biners and I am totally geeking out on how nice it is compared to my BD wiregates and positrons. It requires a lot more initial force when opening the gate, but once it starts to open the resistance drops off dramatically, yet it still has plenty of snap on closing. This makes it way easier to clip; the rope never gets stuck between the gate and the nose. It's way better than the more linear action on the BD carabiners. It instills a sense of high build quality, similar to the "thunk" of a door closing on a BMW. The gate is also flat on the outside so it doesn't twist on reachy/awkward clips (vs. the round bar gate on the positrons). And the thing only weighs about a gram more than a BD hoodwire, while being physically larger and having a significantly wider gate opening. Plus, I know they aren't made in China. Only thing I am displeased with is now I want to replace all my rope end biners, and that's gonna be f###in expensive.

TL;DR Petzl Spirit 'biners are the shit, BD is Chinese (or maybe Utahn) garbage in comparison. I have the older grey and yellow petzl express dogbones and they are awesome.

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Yeah, +1 for the BD Oz draws! My new favorites.

JacksonLandFill Wood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 40
Locker wrote:Ovals on tied webbing.
+1
chuffnugget · · Bolder, CO · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

the best quickdraws are the ones some dude left on your project... so now you don't have to clean them

chris tregge · · Madison WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 11,036
doligo wrote:Petzl Spirits and one of these (well I wish... haven't found any US retailer carrying these):
You can make your own "stiffie" by duct taping a straight piece of a plastic coat hanger to a draw and the spine of the bolt biner. Looks bad, works good for those barely-out-of-reach bolts.
ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

I have always ended up customizing my draws. For sport I like the BD free wire dogbone with a BD hoodwire for the bolt end and madrock ultralight bent gate for the rope end.

Custom made draws

Taylor J · · Taos NM · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 390

The best draws are the ones I can get a killer deal on the cheaper the better!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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