Utah Ice Conditions, 2013 - 2014
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So I've been hoping this thread would pop up for a while now, even though for the vast majority of routes it's still pretty early - but now I have some ice to report on and therefore a legitimate reason to get the ball rolling on my favorite thread on MP. |
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glad to see this is rolling, look forward to finally getting some utah ice in. I've seen you around on satans corner and pentapitch area Sam. I am from Colorado and will be there around thanksgiving and again in december. Hopefully some ice comes in for me! |
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Nice yeah I remember meeting you! If you ever need a partner here in UT feel free to send me a PM and I'll message you my #. |
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Ice on the flank of the Sundial, by Lake Blanche. November 10, 2013 |
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Drove by the dirtcicle today. Climbable but might be kind of a crap lead. Chandeliered and wet. Classic early season shower climb. |
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I´m headed back to Utah for a few weeks in December. Hope to see some of you guys around on some ice! |
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Here is how the the dirtcicle was looking on 11/10/13. I drove back by it today and it was even a bit thinner. |
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I went up to the sundial ice and did some laps on it today. The ice is about 130' long. And has steps to about 80 degrees. It was building all day and never gets sun. |
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any word on how Joe's is doing? I'll be down there this weekend and will let you guys know. |
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Any ice for the weekend? Looks like clear skies in mid-40s this weekend. |
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According to weather.com/weather/tenday/… |
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Steven, while I haven't been up there in a month or so, I'd guess that it's still early for Joe's--it will probably take a more significant cold snap to put those routes into shape. That said, you might have better success up at Mary's Lake, since it's significantly higher with a more consistent aspect. Doubters like me gonna doubt, though, so let us know what you find if you do head up there. |
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Climbed the Sundial ice today; actually not a bad pitch of WI3. Better than I thought it would be. However, it's a slog in, and the more snow we get the worse it will be. Waist deep postholing (tomb-stoning?) ended up creating about a 3 hr approach. For future reference, however, it's not a bad early season flow to hop on when the snow is low. |
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Here's a link to the weather station on the Dam in Joe's. |
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How do you get off of the sundial? |
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Wally29 wrote:How do you get off of the sundial? Is there a walk off, rap anchor, v-thread etc? Thanks!Wally29, it's a full 60m climb so if you have 2 ropes you can come down in one rappel. If not there are 2 spots to rappel. Facing down the route from the top it's just to right off a large Pine tree. The second rap is just below off a dead tree. |
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The pricecicle is getting pretty badly chopped up. Leadable still if you get it in the morning. |
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repel down
Climbed Roberts horn ice yesterday... Did about 120 feet of mostly ice with a little bit of crappy loose rock covered in thin ice thrown in there. it's definitely protect-able but you gotta kinda go where the ice is to find a nice screw placement. Plan to bring rock gear to climb higher and walk off or V-Thread off. Bring snow shoes or skis, we were in thigh deep snow the last 1/2 mile. oh and we saw 5 moose on the way up so try not to get trampled! |
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Just back from Joe's and Huntington. Nothing is even close to in. |
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I went into Provo to dry tool today and was surprised by some ice. At the end of the day I took a couple laps on the left side of the apron. Wet but well bonded ice. |