Pennsylvania cracks

I have a friend who's stayed in the cave. Said it was fine and much nicer for climbing.(since its around climbs). Sounds like a bear bag is smart. I LOVE bears, freakin cool creatures and have had to deal with them at camp and at home, not fun when they want something of yours.

Jake Jones wrote:I think I'm just gonna do a balls early one day deal. I only live about 2.5 hours from Berry Hollow. My plans are to do SF, attempt Bushwhack Crack, and flail around on OMG. They're the same grade, but OMG is a lieback enduro crack and BC is jammable i.e. doable for me. I also might hit PATC and run up some of the easier stuff if there's time. Some good moderates down there. Rusty Bong and Dobie come to mind. I've never been down to the Wall that Dreams are Made Of where BC is. I'm going up on the 9th with a non-climbing buddy (that wants to do the hike) for a little recon to find and see how far away WTDAMO actually is. That way I can get a good bearing on how much time I can spend on each. I'll have a couple people with me, so it sounds like there should be quite a bit of climber traffic that weekend between PA and VA guys. Good times. I know Seth has been there recently so if anyone going needs any approach beta, he's a good source. If you've never been there before and don't have your shit wired, it can be frustrating. There are several stretches that look very similar leaving you thinking that you're somewhere you actually are not. Hope the weather's good. See you guys up there. Be safe too. An evac outta there is a costly and complex ordeal.

I want to share a new discovery. My friend and I found a line (on the left facing wall in the Coroners Area to the right of sawtooth and that 5.4 corner at pond bank) that goes from hands to fingers going vertically, the crack continues for 20ft +/- but traverses left (towards the main wall where sawtooth is) at finger width (give/take) then does vertical again (flakes out at corner then is clean splitter again going vertical) then that crack ends and another appears (1ft to the right away from main wall) that is also finger splitter that goes about +/- 4ft vertically, this ends right below a small roof that also has a finger crack through it! The bulk of the climb isn't on blocky terrain like a lot of pond bank, its actually solid rock. Beautiful.

From here its over, I think you could set up an anchor and belay 2nd or "solo" up 5.0, 5.1 terrain to the top and build the anchor then walk off (I left some webbing for rapp but definitly inspect).

Its vertical for first +/- 10-15ft then its ALL overhanging from there. There's a catch to this "higher level" crack climb: you can't use the main wall and you have to stick to the crack. The feet aren't ideal on and around the traverse (makes it fun!), there will be key smears for sure. If you "cheat" (using face holds and putting feet on main wall) the climb will be much easier.

Its a new project for me (I'm not strong enough as there is finger tip sections that are brutal!) And if you're looking to try something new that involves crack technique please join us! If you send it let us know. Enjoy!

P.s its new to me/us. Not in guides anywhere and I've never heard it mentioned ever so if you've climbed it let me and the world know please. Id be very surprised if somones cleanly climbed just the cracks (its 1 long continuous crack, then 1 4ft, then the crack in the roof so a crack system).

I have pics but computer died so ill post when I can. This line is worthy of attention.

I just wanted to state, in case you were hungry for a new offwidth roof crack, that I found a sweet new problem. Its at (you would have never guessed, I wouldn't have) White Rock Acres. I put it on mtn proj already. The start is gnarly and you're totally upside down. I didn't get close to finishing it though...

If you're just coming in see my last post. I named the project Bubba and named the boulder he Bubba boulder. It sits directly down from but in front of the Main Wall at White Rock Acres.

If you get on it, send it let me know! I will also be working it. I'm sure it'll take more than a few trys to figure out for me. This kind of upside down offwidth is new to me. Exciting.

I will put a disclamer on this post: Most of the best climbing in PA is on private, and/or access sensitive land. I will not talk publicly about areas whose access is in question. Here is my "access appropriate" list. PM me for any questions.

Favorite cracks in Eastern PA:

Crackshot in Bear Valley - 300' crack climb with bullet scars from the FA. 15 foot tall tree fossils nearby. Hanging belay in the remnants of a 3 foot iron concretion.

Voyage of the Damned in the DWG - Who can turn down a big, safe, exposed, juggy roof?

Gorgeous Crack in the Lehigh Gorge - Harder than it looks, and always a good tango. Finish on the Gorgeous face for a happy ending!

Marge's Curves at Boxcar - Great intro to the climbing and gear placement here, with a fun runout pebble slab at the end to keep things spicy.

No Name Crack at Moc - A local testpiece at 5.11d.

Obnoxious partner at Stover - A true-to-the grade 5.8 offwidth.

3 Star at Haycock - A real beauty to run laps on.

There are a handful of unclimbed cracks in PA, most of which are on private property, and will not be discussed on here. There are also a few unclimbed cracks on public land (mostly in the form of old aid lines). Most of the areas listed in the PA guidebook have a crack or two that have not been freed. Get on it young bucks, before I have to dust off my aliens!

Just a bit of PA crack lore:

PA has cracks on cliffs that were made with concrete saws.

PA has great cracks to builder (there is even a buildering guide to one of our biggest cities).

PA has cracks with bolts along their entire length. :-(

There is a beautiful orange dihedral in the coal region that goes on for several pitches. I mean spectacular climbing, but there is a catch. It also requires a boat and/or traversing over an acid-mine drainage pool, with a hanging belay over said pool. Boy do I love PA climbing... Enjoy!

I pm'ed you Joeforte. You have my attention for sure.

"Bubba" the offwidth roof crack was sent. However it wasn't done in "pure" offwidth technique/style, I had to use some face holds. Add it to the list however! Id love to see someone and/or send it myself using purely offwidth techniques: just hand stacks, chicken wings, arm bars, heel to toe camming, knee locks, etc, etc.

Stoned duder,

Go climb my AstroBoy problem at Gretna..
I think you will like it. Crack OW! And it's pure too.

Cheers!

Cor, did you do the FA for Astroboy? If you did awesome vision! I could see many boulderer's passing that upside down vagina looking boulder/problem up, not seeing a problem that starts in the back. Regardless great recommendation!

It took me a lot of trys, over several years, over several sessions and lots of bruises and raw skin lost to send that beast. That's my favorite problem at Gretna hands down! As of last fall I could do from the start to the crux, from the crux to the top out, but I could not link the two. Earlier this spring I finally figured out how to not release and swing at the crux thus being able to hold on. Hands down one of my favorite problems for sure! It is such a fun problem.

Astroboy is a much higher quality problem than Bubba no doubt.

I hope all is well man!

Yep, I was glad to get that one first! It is funny how people walk by things for years with out "seeing" something so cool. I have a few routes here in the densely climber populated Boulder CO that people walked by for years... Including myself! Then one day I am like, wow look at that possible line! Boom new route opened up! It's like that beauty in the eye of the beholder thing.

But yeah, I really love the problem! Even more when I get to see my good friends cus & struggle on it. If I didn't have all those years of Vedauwoo OW practice, that thing would probably crush me!

Glad you enjoyed/still enjoy it!

Cheers man,
Cory

I put up some mixed stuff and rock routes here in the late 70's and 80's with Randy Wall(N.O.L.s) .The location and any name that the place went by back then is fuzzy I was sure it was around Honesdale/Clarks summit? but when I went looking for it in '97 I did not find it .Any one recognize it ? I'm never going to be young enough to go back
It was a good complex area that must be some thing to some one
Cheers

Just throwing this out there but at McConnells Mill there are two small crack that are about 15 feet high and a couple routes that take gear over by breakneck bridge area. I've cleaned both over there and they both go at about 5.9. Just thought i would let everyone know if there interested in leading on gear!

Michael I do not recognize that cliff. Give it time, with your picture and question out there someone may just see it and know.

Madskates thanks for adding those to the list! Good shit dude, Ill have to check them out for sure.

in reference to the picture, could that be campbells ledge?

bump!

matt carrol said/asked: in reference to the picture, could that be campbells ledge?

Michaels picture a few posts above is the referenced picture.

anyone know?

took a look at the ledge today, and I'm pretty sure that isn't it...but then again camera angles can be deceptive!

Hey Stoned--my friend and I are looking to come check out Pond Bank this Sunday. Looks like you've been doing a heckuva lot of development out there--we're excited to see it.

Two questions: Any advice about where to go first? Classics to hit?

and, he's very interested in getting a first ascent somewhere--are there any projects in the 9/10 range still waiting for a suitable, well, suitor? Anything harder than that do you think?

Thanks!

-Kirby

Kirby, I think the four classic cracks are Super crack aka Wise crack, Mr. Gutwrench, Pigs in Space (my personal favorite) and Glens Roof. Id definitly reccomend starting with these four. two quality non-crack routes I reccomend are angulation and surf the boogie; ones to the left of super crack and ones to the right. Then head to Brown Rocks for The North Face, Aretteisima and Southern Comfort. If youre going to lead these three I reccomend being super calculated with your pro because its all small/micro gear and not always the deepest of cracks.

Some direction: Head to the largest pillar/area known as Jims Throne (use pictures to identify, cant miss it), Super crack is just around the corner left of Jims and Glens Roof is the next formation left of Super Crack down the trail a very short ways. Mr. Gutwrench is right of Jims Throne maybe 40ft or so and Pigs in Space is farther down the trail, along the cliff base to the right of Gutwrench, maybe a 1-3 min hike or so.

First ascents are definitly possible, the question isnt if they are there itd just be the quality of the climb and the difficulty. For trad there isnt much left in the 9/10 range however Id check out Brown Rocks and Exploration wall. The overhanging, far right pillar/block on top of Exploration wall has never even been top roped as far as I know, it looks to take micro-gear in the thin seam for sure from my quick recon. I dont reccomend bolting here, but if were to thered be a few places and faces that are worthy of some and would go atleast in the 10/11 range...

If you want quality stone and a first ascent and are willing to boulder head to the Rune Stone area.

Have fun dude! Pond Bank isnt the greatest but you can have tons of fun while there!

Thanks dude! Killer info.