New Hampshire's Best Secret Cragging
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In the good old Granite State of New Hampshire, there is a lot of, well, granite. While areas like Cathedral and Whitehorse, Cannon, and Rumney (schist, but not enough to warrant a new state nickname) get all the attention, there are a ton of smaller crags scattered throughout the state that warrant notice. Meaghan Smith on the Outback Wall, Devils Den The regions premier crag is Longstack Precipice in Alton, which contains 65 mostly new routes from 5.5 5.11+ on granite that climbs curiously like the Gunks. With steep slabs, a plethora of horizontals, and unique features untypical of the mother stone, there is something for almost everyone. Edge walking into Longstack Precipice, "30 years after..." The majority of climbs are trad, with occasional bolts to fill in the blank sections; a handful of the routes are fully sport bolted, but in general are a bit more run-out than the routes at Rumney and not as steep in general. The top of Longstack offers exceptional views of Lake Winnepesaukee, Knights Pond, and the Belnap Range. I first climbed at Longstack in the late 70s, skipping out of classes to pioneer a dozen or so of the more obvious lines. Even then we ran across the odd ring angle pin indicating previous explorations, but the lines were all covered with a thick coat of lichen. The crag sat largely unexplored for the next three decades, mainly due to sketchy ownership and access, but in 2011 a group of local climbers who called themselves the Chinos for their workmanlike approach to scouting out and developing new cliffs and routes received the blessing of the landowner to use the rock for recreation, the only caveat was to be responsible stewards and not cut down any of the large trees below that he used for logging. "Still Gettin' Booty" 5.10a Almost all of Longstacks routes can be climbed as a single pitch with a 60M rope, although many are equipped with intermediate belays and fixed anchors to facilitate rapping off or toproping with a single line. The approach involves a 20 minute walk along logging roads marked with cairns before picking its way up the final slope to the cliff and base trail solidified and maintained by the Chinos. Jim Dickson on the mega-classic roof of "Coyote Rain" 5.6 The wall is divided into three main sections, each with its own unique character. The left hand wall is known as the Indigenous Wall for the early explorations of local climbers and the glut of Native American inspired names; routes here range from 100-170 tall in the 5.5-5.11 range. Somewhat reminiscent of the lower, left end of Cathedral Ledge, it contains steep slabs and great face climbing mostly with trad gear and the occasional bolt. Classics include Spirit Guide 5.5, A Toltec Dream 5.7, Islands 5.7, Hanta Yo 5.8+, Earth and Sky 5.9, the ultra-classic Strychnine 5.9, and Still Getting Booty 5.10a. Sarah Arsenault follows the FA of the Direct Finish to "Raven Song" 5.7 The central, or Big wall section, is generally steeper and taller at a full 170. Littered with roofs, horizontals, and short corner systems, the adventure factor is high. Big Wall classics include Layback Route 5.7, The Arete 5.8+, Riptide 5.9+, Locals Only 5.10a, and Wet Lichen Dreams 5.10+. Jon Garlough on his route "The Arete" 5.8+ The far right end is known as the Wonderland Wall and contains fully bolted routes and some of the cliffs most classic lines up to 90 tall. Must do routes include what may be the best pitch of 5.6 in NH, Coyote Rain, as well as Trifecta 5.9, Winter Classic 5.10a sport, and Gentle Violence 5.11+ Jon Garlough on "Gentle Violence" 5.11+ Getting There: From route 28 in Alton take Rines Road on the right (east). Drive down Rines Road for 1.1 miles until the road comes to a fork and turns to dirt. Stay left at the fork and follow the dirt road for roughly a mile. You will pass two gates on the left. After the second gate (sand pit) there will be a pull off on the left and another small sand pit with a shooting range just beyond it. Park here or any of the other pull offs. Walk behind the shooting range and follow the logging road and cairns to a climbers trail which will lead you to the base of the cliff. There are many ways to approach the cliff depending on where you park. The approach is approx. 20-30 minutes. Guide book: Local hardman and new route activist Jon Garlough has just self published the "Chinos Guide - Climbing in the New Durham Area". Copies can be found for $20 at IME in North Conway and at Indoor Ascent gym in Dover; he is currently working on an on-line version. Mountain Project has a complete list of routes for the entire New Durham area along with additional photos and route comments at mountainproject.com/v/new-d… |
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Thanks for the info, I've seen some of the routes popping up on here and it's spiked my interest for sure. |
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Can you camp around there? |
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Hey EDGE where is the guidebook for the area available now? Has it branched out from IME and the dover gym or are those the only places still? |
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EDGE wrote:Jim, not sure about the camping, so I wouldn't want to say that low impact stealth camping without a fire would probably be OK. OK?Point taken. Looking forward to getting out there. With this area and with all the work Mark is doing at Green's and Owl's, there is so much new high quality stuff to climb. It's going to be a fun summer. Jim |
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jim.dangle wrote: there is so much new high quality stuff to climb.... just wait :) |
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If anyone needs a trad partner for New Durham on Friday 5/10 please let me know. |
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EDGE wrote: The black flies were out and biting along the base trail . . .They don't bother me much, but annoyed my partner; a little bug spray would have solved this minor problemWearing a shirt also helps. |
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Well put Loran............oh and the bugs were bad on the left end but when we moved to the right end they were gone. Next time I will climb with more layers on insted of just shorts. |
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Brendan Blanchard wrote:Thanks for the info, I've seen some of the routes popping up on here and it's spiked my interest for sure. Is it secret enough that the black flies and skeeters haven't heard of it?Lets make an effort to get out there. |
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I was out there yesterday with a few other people and nearly had the cliff to ourselves- really surprised me. I am thoroughly impressed at the work that has gone into developing the cliff! We were there from about 10:30 until after 4 and other than the one couple that was there when we got there, there was one other group that came in. The bugs were not too bad (definitely check for ticks though!) but there was a steady breeze to help keep them at bay. |
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Yea the climbing was spectacular this weekend. I was there on Sunday too, bugs were no problem. I was a little annoyed when a group from mass (I now live in Mass too) came over and sarcastically asked if it was ok to climb the route I was already on. No sweat I had another rope so I let them climb it. Maybe I misread the situation but nice job on the lead climb anyway! Lots of routes to choose from so no reason to crowd in my opinion. |
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Was out at longstack this weekend, and have to say that it's a pretty sweet spot. I always feel weird checking out a new crag when there are a bunch of locals there... like you walked into someone else's BBQ or something. Not this place though. Saw nothing but extremely friendly and super chill faces all day. Good people for sure. Thanks. |
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You shouldn't feel weird going to a new crag if you aren't acting like a dink. The locals who put the routes up are probably happy to see other climbers using the area. They might feel a little "Oh shit, we better finish our projects before somebody else jumps on them", but that's ok, and it does make it harder to new route since you can't leave up fixed ropes or trundle as freely. Later, when the place gets popular and over run, with toilet paper and piles of shit, fixed draws, noise and parking problems, then they will be saying "What the hell were we thinking publicizing it? We created a monster!" |
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A little thread drift following up on MSpragues point: I've always been amazed at how many people can fit into a given section of cliff and still have fun if everyone is being cool and playing nicely. I've also been equally amazed at how quickly one douchebag can ruin things for everybody. |
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Speaking of local Lakes Area climbing, you also have Durrell Mountain in Gillmanton with its handfull of crags. There is some great steep schist sport climbing there. I just don't know about access legitamacy. Some have said it is private and climbers unwelcome, others that it is fine as long as you go in the right way. I personally have never had a problem and I know locals who go there regularly. We might just have to wait for Todd Swain's guide to come out to see what he says, or better yet have a local run down to the town hall and have a look at the area plat maps and see who owns what. |
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Climbed at Longstack New Durham on Sunday with Mahcire (thanks for a great day!). We got there early afternoon and climbed until dark. Spent most of our time on moderates up to 5.9 and found the routes true to grade and found quality climbing. |
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Also wanted to post this safety note. |