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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,800

Loch Vale vicinity report:

Loch Vale Gorge (from a distance) looked meager.

10/26/12.

NW Face of Thatchtop, P1 looks in.
P1 of NW Face of Thatchtop, 10/26/12.

Necrophelia - not much.
Lean, mean. 10/26/12.

Deep Freeze - has ice in the back, but the dagger on the last pitch isn't in.
Deep Freeze, 10/26/12.

The Crypt - not.

Womb With A View - not.
Womb, 10/26/12.

Timberline Falls - in, but not fat. Main section is hollow, open spots, climbable to the sides.
Timberline Falls, 10/26/12.

Garrick Muehlnickel · · Parker,CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 665
Garrick Muehlnickel · · Parker,CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 665
Long's Peak Trail - towards Twin Sisters.

Aw who am I kidding, yesterday was awesome up there, I have to add one more.
Ted Eliason · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585
MattRedford · · Ward, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5

Thanks for all of the updates everyone, very much appreciated!

Yer Gonna Die · · Cragville · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 175

if anyone wants to teach a noob (complete noob from califorina) some ice climbing this december, i'd love to tag along. beers on me. i have all the gear.

Chris91 · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

Glacier Gorge Report:

4"-6" Inches of snow along the trail, 1'-2' near black lake. Black lake was not fully frozen.

Parking Lot Ice: Not

AMU: Looks to be in from the trail, ice bottom to top. Did not appear to be much snow above or below the route.

AMU, 10/27/12.

Jewel: Thin

Jewell: 10/27/12.

Reflections: From the trail, looks to have a fair amount of ice:

Reflections: 10/27/12.

West Gully: Looked thin in spots
Stoneman: Just touching down

West Gully/ Stoneman: 10-27-12.

Black Lake Slabs: Bottom has ice but thin:

Black Lake Slabs: 10-27-12.

ozman · · CO / NM · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 510

Slverton: south mineral creek. Lower direct north face is not in, but there must have been a pronounced freeze line at about 10,500 ft. Because the top pitches are much fatter than the lower few pitches. Same with cataract creek.

Kevin Gillest · · Winter Park CO · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 3,372
Right side upper at Lincoln, as of Oct. 28th.

Lincoln Upper Right-Side

Entire area as of Oct. 28th.

Entire Lincoln Falls Ice, as of 12 noon Oct 28th. Great conditions, the maintenance work/farming has really paid off, hats off to all involved! Ice growing in places I have never seen in the past
Vic Zeilman · · Gunnison · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,137

Routes on the North Face of Mt Sneffels are in great shape right now. The "North Central Couloir" (to the left of the North Buttress and the Snake Couloir) is currently 1200' of ice, pretty much top to bottom.

Base of the "North Central Couloir" WI/AI3, M3ish.

Starting up the "North Central Couloir".

"North Central Couloir".

Steven N · · CO · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 80
Kevin Gillest wrote: Lincoln Upper Right-Side Entire Lincoln Falls Ice, as of 12 noon Oct 28th. Great conditions, the maintenance work/farming has really paid off, hats off to all involved! Ice growing in places I have never seen in the past
Wow definately a LOT of work going on up there.
Phil Magistro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Went up yesterday into the Mt. Meeker cirque and climbed the Flying Dutchman. I posted a full conditions report at elevatedattitude.com.

elevatedattitude.com/dailyl…

Tony T · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45

Lincoln looks great this year! I had no idea there was farming and work being done up there until a friend at work mentioned it. Anyone from MP involved? If so, I definitely will buy you a beer once I get up there and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Cheers!

Brandon Groza · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 270

Anyone been in Fields chimney? Saw that Phil ran into some peeps who did it recently...

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375
Ice Conditions: The Flying Dutchman [10/31/2012]

Phil Magistro wrote:Went up yesterday into the Mt. Meeker cirque and climbed the Flying Dutchman. I posted a full conditions report at elevatedattitude.com. elevatedattitude.com/dailyl…
Phil,

Thanks for kicking that perfect staircase in there for me. It made for a fun an quick ascent!

Here are some pics from yesterday to supplement Phil's Report:

Flying Dutchman, Chasm Lake is nice and frozen!

Meaty Goodness on The Flying Dutchman.

Ice on The Loft.

Ice flows feeding Peacock Pool - not bad!
Noah McKelvin · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,500

For those curious about Fields Chimney conditions...These photos from a couple weeks ago.

Fields Chimney a couple weeks ago.
FC fun.
More fun.

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

So what is the best way down from Flying Dutchman? I'm thinking about soloing, do you need a rope to get down a section of the loft?

Simon Thompson · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 890

Go without a rope and downclimb the loft!

ozman · · CO / NM · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 510

Is that guy wearing clown pants in the chimney? Pretty awesome.

Christian Mason · · Westminster CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 161

The guys farming at Lincoln are doing a great job.
Conditions photos from Thursday, 11-1

A number of the pillars are still running with water and would not be in lead-able condition. The WI5ish pillar (that formed pre-farming) is not fully in yet.

There are several new lines in the 4, 4- range up on the right that are forming up nicely. The ones in the shade are in good shape to lead.

Lincoln Falls overview.

Main gully.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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