Bolted OW sport routes, or OW boulder problems?
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So, lately I've been super inspired by the Wide Boyz and Pamela Pack (I mean whoa, what a badass.) And I've been thinking I might like to try a little offwidth climbing, just for fun... but I don't see myself investing in any giant pro anytime soon. SO, my question is this: Does anyone know of any OW routes that are bolted for sport climbing? And if that doesn't exist, how about some good beginner OW boulder problems? I live in CO in the Boulder area but would love to know about fun things in any place... Thanks guys!!! |
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You can set up a top rope, with gear, on Huston Crack ( mountainproject.com/v/husto…). That's a lot of fun and classic OW. |
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Alternately, Vedauwoo is PACKED with offwidth boulder problems and easily top-roped offwidths (Fantasia is easily toproped after climbing Kim, Orbital Ridge is an alternate start to Skull and requires some true leavittation to go at the posted grade). Squat (5.12b) is bolted, but with old quarter-inchers that pre-date the invention of Big Bros, or even the manufacture of #5 friends. |
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A few entry level routes that will work with up to a #4 Camalot |
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Awesome guys, thanks!!! These are all really great, I hadn't thought of setting up a TR, brilliant. |
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Hudson would require a gear anchor. I wanna say a #2 camalot and 2 more smaller cams. Can't remember. If you do TR it, make sure to get on Aid Crack, just to the right. 10d tips. |
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Ok, yeah I've never set an anchor that way, so I suppose that route will have to wait. Enemy Within looks rad though, I like the idea of a squeeze chimney, cool!!! Do you think it's possible to hike to the top and set a TR with those bolts? |
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I don't think you can hike up to that? Not sure, but it can be climbed with 1 or 2 cams, a few nuts and 2 quick draws, then you'd also need draws for the anchor. Then you could TR Thus Us from the same anchors. |
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Me thinks you need to just go buy some big bros. they are really shiny and super fun to play with!! And the biiger the gear on your harness the cooler you look. |
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If you really wanna get worked set up a TR on Huston crack. It's humbling to say the least. Offwidth but I remember that there's not much wide gear maybe a 4 or 5? And you can scramble low 5th to set up a TR. |
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..." If you don't know how to set a SRENE gear anchor, get someone who does to show you." |
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Greg D wrote:..." If you don't know how to set a SRENE gear anchor, get someone who does to show you." As if someone could just tell you in a few minutes, maybe over the internet. Come on. Bad adviceI don't think thats what the OP was suggesting. In fact I am SURE he was not saying "have someone explain to you over the internet how to build a natural anchor and take it from there"... Pretty easy to understand the OP meant find someone that knows how to do it and have them take you out and set on up and show you how its done. Reading comprehension Greg.... Come on! Try to work on it! |
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RockyMtnTed wrote: I don't think thats what the OP was suggesting. In fact I am SURE he was not saying "have someone explain to you over the internet how to build a natural anchor and take it from there"... Pretty easy to understand the OP meant find someone that knows how to do it and have them take you out and set on up and show you how its done. Reading comprehension Greg.... Come on! Try to work on it!Actually I wasn't responding to the op. Someone else suggested it and has since deleted his post. He must have realized it was bad advice. Total comprehension Ted? |
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Can you climb trad or have friends that do? There are lots of easy trad lines you can climb and then throw a rope on an offwidth to top rope without needing big gear. |
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Maybe someday the author will publicize this but don't hold your breath for it being anytime soon. Ha. |
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looks like a climb at the maze in vedauwoo... |
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Was just at The Maze in the Voo...if you lead "stepford wives" which is 5.8 perfect hands you can easily TR a couple of hard OW climbs. |
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If you are looking for bolted OWs, you probably won't find much in the Front Range so my (revised) reco would be to head up to Vedauwoo with a few bouldering pads, thick jeans, lots of tape, and a "mad at the world" attitude. |
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Hey Dankasaurus...I have been looking for the maze (stepford wives) inparticular and cant seem to find it. Any chance, can you give some beta on how to get there? sounds super sweet. would love to get on it. |
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PM sent with beta. Let me know if you want more info. |
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Suprised nobody mentioned turkery perch |