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Gym Fall - Harness on wrong

Original Post
Debbie Vischer · · Loveland · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 530

A gal at my climbing gym fell 25+ feet while top roping today. Scared the shit out of me. Surprisingly she seemed to be ok (minus being really shaken up) and was able to walk out on her own. She said she landed on all 4s (forearms and knees), with her face hitting the mat from the force. We all looked up the wall and could see her figure eight knot dangling. We were all wondering how this happened. Well, as my gaze came back down on her and her harness, it became clear. She had the harness on backwards and was tied into one of her gear loops (which blew). It was a "new" harness for her (borrowed from a friend). And yes, she is a relatively new climber.

Good lesson for all....even tho she complained about it feeling "weird", neither she nor her partner knew of the error until it was too late. I'm usually watching and coaching on bad belay techniques with newbies...now I need to start looking more closely at their harnesses too! Who would have thunk!?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Debbie Vischer wrote:A gal at my climbing gym fell
Is it actually your gym? Do you own it or just feel a sense of responsibility for the new climbers?
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Sounds like partner was also inexperienced. Should have done a partner check of harness, knot, belay, etc. before ascent. Easy going attitudes lead to accidents on rock or in gym.

a d · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5

Sounds like the gym is doing a great job on its safety measures....their insurance would go through the roof if they got wind of this.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Someone needs to be fired, and the woman told to take up golf

LeeAB Brinckerhoff · · Austin, TX · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10,288

This is actually a huge issue. I catch very experienced climbers that are members of the gym getting ready to climb with their harness just threaded and not doubled back pretty regularly, it is just too easy to get distracted with everything going on around. This doesn't even touch on all the younger climbers wanting to wear their harness with their underwear hanging out the top or like low rider pants.

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415

meh, I'd forgive her

backass harness

Mark Wyss · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 255
Matt N wrote:meh, I'd forgive her
+1 That beauty...no doubt.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Matt N wrote:meh, I'd forgive her
I almost forgot about the similarity here. Nice catch.
Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415
Woodchuck ATC wrote: I almost forgot about the similarity here. Nice catch.
Well one of us remembered the harness.
NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

I can't help but wonder what kind of idiot she had for a belay partner that he/she never noticed this?

What ever happened to climbers giving each other the 'last minute check' for their buckles doubled back properly, knots tied correctly, etc. before climbing? We always do!

And - no gym staff wandering around keeping an eye on things for 'safety?' Here locally we have a gym that has 'safety staff' who's sole role is to walk around and keep an eye on things...

Shame on both of them!

BigJuggsjohnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 220
...
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

Weird story. I would have thought it'd be pretty hard to tighten a harness that's on backwards!

Michael Urban wrote:I can't help but wonder what kind of idiot she had for a belay partner that he/she never noticed this? What ever happened to climbers giving each other the 'last minute check' for their buckles doubled back properly, knots tied correctly, etc. before climbing? We always do! And - no gym staff wandering around keeping an eye on things for 'safety?' Here locally we have a gym that has 'safety staff' who's sole role is to walk around and keep an eye on things... Shame on both of them!
In the first place, maybe she had on a shirt that covered up the mistake, maybe her belayer pointed out the mistake and was ignored, maybe her belayer didn't know any better, maybe the belayer was the one who told her how to put the harness on backwards! Hard to know what kind of idiot without knowing the details.

As for a partner check, it's difficult to be against this, but at the same time, to think partner checks protect against all errors is overly optimistic.

Finally, the gyms near Loveland are quite small and I doubt they can afford the staffing to have roving employees protecting patrons from themselves. There's a degree of responsibility even beginning climbers have to assume. Falling is dangerous. Hanging around gyms (and cliffs) where things can fall on you is dangerous.

Still, backwards???

Mark
BigJuggsjohnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 220

falling iz dangerous indeed!!!! Smartest thing I heard today!

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85
Mark E Dixon wrote:Weird story. I would have thought it'd be pretty hard to tighten a harness that's on backwards! In the first place, maybe she had on a shirt that covered up the mistake, maybe her belayer pointed out the mistake and was ignored, maybe her belayer didn't know any better, maybe the belayer was the one who told her how to put the harness on backwards! Hard to know what kind of idiot without knowing the details. As for a partner check, it's difficult to be against this, but at the same time, to think partner checks protect against all errors is overly optimistic. Finally, the gyms near Loveland are quite small and I doubt they can afford the staffing to have roving employees protecting patrons from themselves. There's a degree of responsibility even beginning climbers have to assume. Falling is dangerous. Hanging around gyms (and cliffs) where things can fall on you is dangerous. Still, backwards??? Mark
Well Mark - a partner check won't prevent ALL errors for sure - but it would have prevented THIS one even before an 'overlay large' shirt covered up the error! My buds and I always check each others harnesses and tie in knot before we begin climbing - always. Can we get the chop some other way? Sure - nothing is 100% - but it won't be this way!
NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85
Michael Urban wrote: Well Mark - a partner check won't prevent ALL errors for sure - but it would have prevented THIS one even before an 'overlay large' shirt covered up the error! My buds and I always check each others harnesses and tie in knot before we begin climbing - always. Can we get the chop some other way? Sure - nothing is 100% - but it won't be this way!
I can't help but wonder HOW in hell she managed to secure the waist buckle when it was on backwards!
BigJuggsjohnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 220
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Michael Urban wrote: Well Mark - a partner check won't prevent ALL errors for sure - but it would have prevented THIS one even before an 'overlay large' shirt covered up the error! My buds and I always check each others harnesses and tie in knot before we begin climbing - always. Can we get the chop some other way? Sure - nothing is 100% - but it won't be this way!
Can give a false sense of security too- not all mis-tied knots are going to be obvious except under close scrutiny. And I'm still not convinced her partner knew any better than she did!

I'm not opposed to partner checks, they add another level of security, but tying in correctly is the best protection.

Mark
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Is BigJuggsJohnson really Elena? The reincarnation?

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Ugh. This story makes me queasy. Glad the girl survived the screwup and learned something. She's very lucky.

Debbie Vischer · · Loveland · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 530

Mark is correct - small gym in Loveland with one person managing things. Still you would have thought someone would have noticed (her partner first and foremost) and the staff member. But like I said, usually belaying technique is what's being watched. I personally never thought anyone would put a harness on backwards. I even tried it myself and it's damn weird. Just one of those ultra newbie moments I guess.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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