climbing ban at ramapo powerlines

why is there so much rock along the Hudson river from the GW bridge all the way up to almost Canada yet very little climbing? Especially from the GW bridge past the Tappan Zee bridge. I see all these parks with rock, whats the deal?

Dude you didnt discover the place. Why are you acting like you did?

Also, whats up with your rating system? Standard northeast v1s are harder than stuff you list at v6. Had you ever bouldered outside before you wrote the guide?

And mobley, what parks are you talking about? Ive never seen anything that looked even remotely climbable near TZ and im very familiar with the area. Unless you mean the westchosster side.

mobley wrote:why is there so much rock along the Hudson river from the GW bridge all the way up to almost Canada yet very little climbing? Especially from the GW bridge past the Tappan Zee bridge. I see all these parks with rock, whats the deal?

The stuff near the GW and in the parks all the way north to Newburgh is all run by the Palisades Interstate Park Commission which does not like climbing. And because you can see them from roads, they make poor choices for poaching. A few walls on the west side near west point are legit, but the rock quality is crappy. I don't know what the rock situation is farther north, but the river does start in the Dacks, which has plenty of legal climbing.

EDIT: boulderbum, there is a history of climbing (illegally) at the palisades (also this area doesn't look so bad), which is probably what he's talking about, as well as at storm king, west point, arden, harriman and probably other places I don't know about.

I know about harriman and storm king, west point etc. Like i said...ive never seen anything climbable south of the bear mtn bridge...surely he couldnt of meant the palisades cliffs? Or he wouldve said it?

Boulderbum - It is true. I did discover this area right after I invented SLCDs and it looks like you're backing off our bet.

But the grading thing is a bonafide issue. It's an indoor/outdoor bouldering rating issue. I calibrated the ratings to my local gyms: the NJRG and the GV. With a little research, the grades kind of match the British B system, which are very kind to the gym noobs.

But it breaks down at V5, where it's supposed to match up. Perfect example: The Immelman, pg 80, V6 - a proud line that's harder then any of the gym-like V5s I put up. T and G come along and trad lead it for a cool 5.11-. I believe that's a Hueco V2. Maybe V1 if you check the Spadeout link: spadout.com/wiki/index.php/….

Sandbag and downgrade me, baby! But, that doesn't solve the rating issue. I tell you who'd have a good feel for it would be Big C from RnS. He route sets for the GV and he's a travellin' man. Maybe we get him to weigh in.

PS - And on Mobley's nicely leading question. Yes, all that rad lookin' rock along the Hudson belongs to the PIPC. And if we're nice and careful here, we have a chance of changing a hundred year policy that makes climbing all that rock illegal.

youtube.com/watch?v=f0QYmnI….

mr boulder bum is right the grades are way off

If you ever want the grades to be taken serious and not make people think the place is a joke rating to the Gym of NJ are not a good way of doing so.

Someone thinking they can climb v6 can go hop on a real v2 highball and get messed up. I understand why it is rated down for the gym kids. But to be honest it doesn't help them or anyone else other than the ego boost they get posting it on FB for their friends.

Way off for local climbing gyms? You think 90% of the stuff should be rated VB?

Let's face it, in the long run grades are a consensus thing. I gave my opinion and it is based on a local standard and intended for those people coming out of the local gyms.

If you've got something that is more clear and accurate, (the Hueco standard, right?), I'm sure people won't have a problem with it. Post it up!

Ps - Posidave just saw your post. The standard is explained in the guidebook, and I think you've got to trust people aren't going to jump on Ankle Breaker V2 in the Gunks belowish Jackie when they're not that strong. Maybe just change out the Vs for Bs and really confuse people!

I would said outdoor grades are outdoor grades. Indoor grades are indoor grades. Since it is America. Hueco bouldering / Yosemite would make sense. I mean I could careless regardless but that seems like it would be the best bet.

The area is best suited as a beginner bouldering crag. So you'd suggest labeling most of it VB and V0- V0--. My personal opining is that if you state your case, don't try and take more credit then you're due people have got to respect it.

this whole thing is so dumb... but indoor and outdoor climbing is two different things. I don't understand why you can't just go out and climb without making facebook pages and a guidebook. Why didn't you just go there and climb, then leave and repeat the process. I haven't been to powerlines since this "closure" but that isn't because of the closure . I just hope you guys don't take it upon yourselves to make anymore guidebooks to areas that are sensitive. For that matter i hope if you do go to any other area anywhere that you act like a guest and not some entitled activist. It would seem to me that without your presence that none of these issue would have ever came to light.

i'd rather have a legal climbing/bouldering area with bogus grades that came about because of the climbing community putting their differences aside and coming together as a cohesive entity than a closed area with solid grading accuracy.

So let me get this straight:

Someone wrote a guidebook and publicized a bouldering area that has nothing harder than a V1, then rated the hardest problems at V6, and now the area is so over run w/ beginners than it has been closed down? Classic.

Admin, thanks for dropping in, and let me bring you in on things. Climbers didn't cause this closure. About four pages back we discussed how the land was just acquired by the Palisades Interstate Park Commission, as it's adjacent to another large parcel of land administrated by them. They have a no climbing policy that effects a great deal of rock in the NY metro area. If we can demonstrate that changing the policy can work in this one area, then it might be possible to open up a lot more climbing opportunities.

The closure isn't because of Climbing it is because of the population of the Tri-state area. Liability and Lawsuits. whatever you want to call it. As for grades I don't care. I just think inflating grades to go with a Gym is stupid. Bouldering? Not really. But half the people that climb in NJ at those areas probably shouldn't been given any more reason to think climbing that highball V2 elsewhere is a great idea.

You know, the grades really don't matter to me. I'll buy the chips and beverage of your choice when we can sit down and decide which way everybody wants it. But, if your going to change the way the PIPC does business you need votes. You kind of need the beginners to overrun them. And that I think sums it up for me. I can make my peace with that.

jon crefeld wrote: I'll buy the chips and beverage of your choice when we can sit down and decide which way everybody wants it. But, if your going to change the way the PIPC does business you need votes.

this ˆˆˆ

get it open first, hash it out later.

Glad someone is trying to get legal access to climbing areas in NNJ area.

Boulderbum you arent looking hard enough. Many hard problems in NNJ.

Thanks for your patience everyone. If you've checked the Facebook page, you've already seen that things continue to look positive for legal access in area. It's a fine testament to a passionate group of people.

slomopho wrote:Glad someone is trying to get legal access to climbing areas in NNJ area. Boulderbum you arent looking hard enough. Many hard problems in NNJ.

jerseys a joke dude. Any self-respecting unfortunate who found himself there would do well to save his energy for the local gym, then drive to PA or NY to climb real rock. Whats the killer jersey spot? Sourlands? lol