RRG: Favorite sport 10's?

Hi all:
Heading to the Red next week (all weekdays) for the first time. Any any favorite sport routes at the 5.10 grade that I should add to my list? Easier 11's would also be of interest, or even sub-10 megaclassics I shouldn't miss.

Food recommendations also welcome (besides Miguel's, that one I've heard of!).

Thanks,
David

Breakfast Burrito, 10c (or d)

Air ride equipped 11a

The Gallery has some great moderates, including

A Brief History of Climb
27 Years of Climbing

Edit: Also, Tectonic wall has one of my favorite climbs ever, along with some great easy climbing:

Gettin Lucky in Kentucky

I thought all of the 10's at whichever wall Breakfast BUrrito is on were really good. BB was the first route I did in a month long trip to the Red and it stood up to most of the other routes, even harder ones.

There is a soft 11a, long and sustained with kind of a cave rest at the midpoint. That is also at the same wall, and is very good. Fuzzy Undercling is another soft 11, but the boulder problem start is kinda tough. God it's been years since I've been to the Red...

THere is also a classic 9 called Plate Techtonics or something like that... but there will be a conga line, even on a week day.

Oh yea, the trad climbing is just as good as the sport.

Sunnyside at Muir Valley has a few good ones, and they all stay dry in the rain. Even Bruise Brothers has a few on the right side of the crag that are longer than all the rest of the routes, and they are super fun. Have a great time!

Went there for the first time myself a week ago. Here are a few 10's we really enjoyed.

Loompa 10c at the chocolate factory. Pretty powerful and harder than the many other 10's but steep and fun.

Creep Show 10d at phantasia wall. Another powerful 10 with some good variety going from steep to balancy.

Boltergeist 10b at Hideout in Muir Valley. Chill slab climbing that goes on forever...
I didn't get a chance to get on the ones already recommended other than air ride equipped which is a great jug hall but these ones were very enjoyable and worth doing if you end up at these crags.

As for food: I recommend the Rockhouse Cafe up the road a few miles past Miguel's. Good food, good beer and super nice people running it.

If you have time during the week (wouldnt recommend it in a weekend), you can go to The Shire. Easy short warmups (which are noob-raped on weekends), then you climb G-Man (10c) and KSB (10d). G-Man has some slopers and makes you think and desperately search for holds, and KSB is a blank wall except for iron crimpers and slots. Once you've bagged those, head a little further into the valley and get on Amarillo Sunset (11b). Awesomely juggy with nice exposure.

tscupp wrote:Boltergeist 10b at Hideout in Muir Valley. Chill slab climbing that goes on forever...

Meh boltergeist isnt that great, especially because everybody and their brother thinks its the best route in the Red and is perpetually packed. I think thrillbillies which is also 10b slab is a MUCH better route, more continuous, better moves, and not gang banged by gumbies all day!

Other good tens check out the gallery wall, bruise brothers, great wall, hideout, techtonic, the shire, the playground etc etc... Just look through the book, they are everywhere!

Zane Dordai wrote:Breakfast burrito has a perfect crimping section to a huge rest and then a perfect exposed boulder problem.

Haha crimps on Breakfast Burrito before the sit down rest? I think you were climbing it wrong, that whole route is jugs. I don't think I used any crimps on that route...

Thanks a lot to everyone for the great beta. Really psyched to put it to good use in a few days!
Cheers,
David

Sounds like you climb harder than I do, but I loved to Defy the Laws of Tradition, 5.10a. It's at Left Flank, which is relatively close to Military Wall, where Fuzzy Undercling is. It took us about 20 minutes to walk to one from the other, so it would be easy to do both in the same day.

I also quite enjoyed the three climbs on the Tectonic wall, Gettin' Lucky, which was previously mentioned, Plate Tectonics, and a 10c that's also on the same wall.

Erika-at-Olin wrote:Sounds like you climb harder than I do, but I loved to Defy the Laws of Tradition, 5.10a. It's at Left Flank, which is relatively close to Military Wall, where Fuzzy Undercling is. It took us about 20 minutes to walk to one from the other, so it would be easy to do both in the same day. I also quite enjoyed the three climbs on the Tectonic wall, Gettin' Lucky, which was previously mentioned, Plate Tectonics, and a 10c that's also on the same wall.

Hi Erika,
Nope I don't think you climb harder than I do: I'm just hoping that at the Red, courtesy of those nice new bolts, I can climb harder than I do! Thanks for the recommendations!

For PMRP you will want a high clearance vehicle if you are driving farther then the mother load parking lot. if in the area a great trad line is Cheaper then a movie. Its at chica Bonita wall. Bob Marley is full of overhung jug hauls. Purgatory is one of the classic hard walls filled with 5.11-14c. even if you don't climb that hard it is worth going back to look at the crag if you are near. Fortress wall, Tower Rock, and Pebble beach all have great trad.

SteveBSU wrote:For PMRP you will want a high clearance vehicle if you are driving farther then the mother load parking lot. if in the area a great trad line is Cheaper then a movie. Its at chica Bonita wall. Bob Marley is full of overhung jug hauls. Purgatory is one of the classic hard walls filled with 5.11-14c. even if you don't climb that hard it is worth going back to look at the crag if you are near. Fortress wall, Tower Rock, and Pebble beach all have great trad.

Wow worst recommendations ever. Did you read the guys post? He is looking for sport routes around 5.10

Bob Marley, Purgatory, fortress, tower rock and pebble beach would all be poor suggestions for him.

machete on sunnyside in muir

Just as others have said, at Drive-by - Breakfast Burrito, Fire & Brimstone, Whipstockig. Also the 5.10's at Great Wall in Muir, then on the other side of the trail, Air Ride Equipped and Bathtub Mary.
Also at Muir, the 5.11a on the right side of the Bib Wall (sorry, the name escapes me for the moment).

Check out Rock House; slightly pricier compared to Miguel's but RH has beer on tap.

SteveBSU wrote:For PMRP you will want a high clearance vehicle if you are driving farther then the mother load parking lot. if in the area a great trad line is Cheaper then a movie. Its at chica Bonita wall. Bob Marley is full of overhung jug hauls. Purgatory is one of the classic hard walls filled with 5.11-14c. even if you don't climb that hard it is worth going back to look at the crag if you are near. Fortress wall, Tower Rock, and Pebble beach all have great trad.

The road out to the Gallery parking lot was passable by a standard-clearance car (minivan, actually!) today. Wouldn't have wanted to try it in the rain without 4wd, though, and the road wouldn't have had to get much worse before it would have caused us clearance problems also.

Wasn't Military closed, im not posotive on this so if it is open I'm sorry for the mix up. If your in Muir be sure to donate or else you may have another Roadside that is just something nice to look at.

If Military is still open.... This is a fun route Possum Lips

mountainproject.com/v/possu…

mustardtiger wrote:Wasn't Military closed, im not posotive on this so if it is open I'm sorry for the mix up. If your in Muir be sure to donate or else you may have another Roadside that is just something nice to look at.

Haven't tried Military so far, but second the Muir donation comment...that's really an amazing thing that the Weber's have done for the climbing community. So many great routes in such a beautiful setting! Not a lot of folks out there that are putting their private playground out there for the general public to use. We had the pleasure of meeting Rick today (he was building a picnic table for you). Really nice person, no great surprise given the total awesomeness that he and his wife have created in Muir Valley. And yes, I did donate!

I don't even climb in the Red mostly becuase I perfer bouldering but I have alot of friends and family who really enjoyed roadside so I don't want to see that happen to a place like Muir...and yes I know that roadside was apparently closed due to the conditions at the crag but its all about moneny when you think about it.