Removable bolt trial by fire by manufacturer
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Yowza - taking a voluntary 50 footer on a single(?) removable bolt. |
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I'd like to try a few. Guessing soft rock won't work as well - not after many uses anyway. |
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Now that is a man who stands by his product. |
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http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/nh/45/ivyaccrpt.html
These cavers were a couple of dumbasses from the start but their experience with RB's is slightly less impressive than the video. 50 ft'r on any single piece of pro and you've got my attention though. That does take some stones. |
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They have been around for a while. The problem with the older ones is that if you fell on them or even weighted them, they would become fixed. The newer ones do not have this problem, making them more useful. |
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Now try removing them without destroy them. I borrowed a 3/8" one to use as a TR directional for cleaning and bolting a steep route with glue-ins and the only way to get it out was with a screw driver and hammer to loosen it up, which ended up mangling the cable. Luckily my friend thought they were useless anyway so I didn't have to replace it. |
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^ are they really removable now, Ryan? If so, then they would be useful for bolting steep routes. Instead, when working from the top down if I couldn't hook anything I would place temporary small cheap removable hardware store bolts to hold myself in enough to do the work(a regular climbing bolt if failure would be critical). When my glue-ins were dry I would then take them out and carefully patch. |
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I don't have a ton of experience w/ the new ones but have had someone explain to me how they were reworked. It's been a while, but I believe that if the new ones don't come out by hand, there is a flat surface on the bottom of the inner piece that you can tap with a chisel point or drill bit (pushing it into the hole) and freeing the outer two pieces. |
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A 3/4" hole is lower-impact than a 1" hole. 1" is the other size that is available. |
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The design looks pretty solid. It's basically a two-sided ball nut. But, I don't really see the application for these. Or, at least, it's hard to imagine them catching on. |
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These guys also make a complete line of carabiners, quickdraws and perma-draws, etc. |
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Like Crag Dweller said, I don't really understand where you would need them. Are they useful for developing routes? |
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i kind of like the idea of a holey route, where you plug and chug (kind of like indian creek). HOWEVER i think the problem is that there would be borderline manufactured monos that can be used to climb. Also, due to the nature of sport climbing, the RBs may be intentionally left fixed anyway with draws on them. speaking of that, maybe the cable tubing could be grey or brown to blend in. |
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one thing's certain. if they did catch on, the whole redpoint/pinkpoint debate is going to blow up. |
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Crag Dweller wrote:one thing's certain. if they did catch on, the whole redpoint/pinkpoint debate is going to blow up. is it a redpoint if i climb second and the bolts are already in place? what if the bolts and 'draws are both in place?! Oh Their God (OTG)!!! We'd have to come up with another term that none of use could agree on. this technology would create a divide in the climbing community that we could never undo. we need to act now to prevent this from happening. someone call Anonymous. ClimbTech's web site must come down.I don't think anyone is suggesting that these will catch on as sport climbing protection. As has been mentioned earlier in this thread, the main application for these is route development. With a removeable bolt the developer can keep close to the wall for drilling, and then use the same RB hole to place a glue-in. I guess I could see these being used as sport climbing protection in areas that don't allow fixed gear, there may be a loophole where drilling a hole isn't illegal since you aren't leaving any hardware (not that I'm condoning this idea). |
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muttonface wrote:I like how nonchalant he is about it. "welp, this looks like a good place for a fifty footer on one removable piece. later."And with no helmet. Surprised me at first, but then i guess if the thing failed a helmet wouldn't have done him much good anyway. Dude looks like he just got up from watching a football game on the couch. Ha! |
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kennoyce wrote: ...the main application for these is route development...ah, that makes more sense, thanks. |
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caughtinside wrote: Some guys experimented with that way up in NorCal, full RB routes. The problem is once the drill dust is gone... those holes can be very difficult to see. The routes were in limestone and I think the idea died when a guy took a fall and ripped off a whole plate. Those holes will wear down under repeated loading.Yeah, I remember hearing about Lindner putting up a testpiece on RBs a few years ago. It was on the NoCal coast, and I think their logic was that any permabolts would corrode from the salt spray quickly, so may as well use RBs for the send. ukclimbing.com/news/item.ph… |
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caughtinside wrote: I was thinking of a different area/route, but you may be right. Although I though lindner's route used a triplex bolt, which is also removable. I think they filmed the route then removed the gear? Not that cool.Why is that uncool? I think it is better to remove the bolts than leave them knowing they will corrode and be a hazard. |
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I could see how these would be useful for doing big wall FA's in remote locations. Imagine only having to carry a handful of removable bolts vs a ton of hangers and bolts. |