The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Actually, Hidden Falls in the Wild Basin is the easiest and best spot in RMNP for top-roping... but don't tell 'em I sent you.

Hidden Falls is great for top roping but be careful of the loose bolt in the cave left of the main pillar. One bolt good one bolt bad. Just go to the top it's only a few feet more. I was just up there 1/7.

My friend just decided we need to go to Ouray/Telluride this weekend and stay out of the park. Anyone know about the 1st pitch of ames ice hose? I've heard it is ice all the the way down but can't remember from where.

We are also interested in some of the climbes out 550, Gravity Rainbow, Bridal Falls, Kennedy's gully (Blue Condition)? I know some of these are south facing so conditions can change rapidly. Any other suggestions for fun multipitch ice in the area would be great. Camp Bird RD has some great climbs but we have been up there a few times already.

Will Butler wrote: Loch Vale in RMNP is probably you're best bet for setting up some TRs on the Front Range. Clear Creek was largely dry the last time I drove by.

which route(s) are you referring to?

Hey wleake16, Pretty much everything on the N. Side of 550 is out. There's been little snow and high temps. The recent snow will help and it's getting colder but even so it's still gonna take a fair bit of time. There was that unnamed WI3 that forms in a sheltered gully climber's right of Gravities Rainbow that looked doable but I didn't get on it. Stuff on the other side of 550 is good. Horsetail is in but wet, French Slab is good. Some of that other unnamed gnarly looking stuff is in. I'm gonna post a conditions report here, probably today.

New to ice climbing...as in never been before but am dying to go do it. Wondering what places around Boulder are good for going and setting up a TR on beginner friendly ice. I hear there is some stuff near Castle Rock and further up the canyon. But am not sure of current conditions. Anyone know the ld on that? What about the park?

So Upper Falls was brilliant fun and now I am addicted. Wanting to go up to RMNP and do some more TR on the ice around Nymph lake. Does anyone know what conditions are like up there or anywhere else in the park?

nice ice at Nymph...deep/loose/faceted snow on the last 100 meters of the approach is common. Long walk for short ice imho and you might spend a weekend day with a large CMC or CMS group...kinda that way all over the Front Range on easy stuff.

So in the Telluride area Bridalveil is in good shape. The Fang and Three Stooges is also in really good shape. You can get to Crazy Horse by approaching on the viaferatta. Silver Pick Falls is in. Might be a good time to explore Fall Creek area.

Going out of town toward Red Mtn Pass. Anything that has been in the sun is long gone. Kennedy's, Gravity's Rainbow, etc. All melted out. Horsetail Falls and routes on that side of the road are in good shape.

In Eureka you can still climb Gold Rush but maybe for not much longer. Whorehouse Hoses and STH are both in thick. Not much else there. Highway to Hell (right of STH) is in thick shape.

Ouray Ice Park is in good shape but not much outside of the ice park. The usual suspects on the Camp Bird Mine road are in as is BBB and The Ribbon. Good stuff back in the Amphitheatre area.

Anyone been up to Big Thompson recently?

Yes...and there is absolutely nothing there that I have seen.

wleake16 wrote:My friend just decided we need to go to Ouray/Telluride this weekend and stay out of the park. Anyone know about the 1st pitch of ames ice hose? I've heard it is ice all the the way down but can't remember from where.

As of last Sat., the first pitch was steep for the last 2/3 before the roll-off and mostly hooks. They actually felt pretty secure, though, as many had filled in with snow/ice chips that had re-frozen so you could actually get reasonable "sticks" (i.e. not rattley hooks). One needs to be delicate though to preserve the ice for the rest of the season. No bashing away on P1 right now.

Protection was available but not everywhere. I.e. "Not difficult, just dangerous" as a mentor once said. Not difficult, that is, if you're solid on WI5. ;^) Toughest move was getting over to the P1 belay ledge.

P2 again was filled-in hooks and somewhat balancey. All ice gear.

There's a couple of new bolt stations. One at the base of P3 and one high on the left between the P1 belay ledge and the P3 bottom belay.

P1 Photo here

Eli Helmuth wrote:nice ice at Nymph...deep/loose/faceted snow on the last 100 meters of the approach is common. Long walk for short ice imho and you might spend a weekend day with a large CMC or CMS group...kinda that way all over the Front Range on easy stuff.

Thanks Eli! I think I'm gonna head up Sunday since it's the only day I have off this next week. Hopefully CMS will have a small group or no group at all!

FWIW, Jaws in RMNP looks very anemic, rotted yesterday.

Jaws, 1/12/12.

Windy Gulch Cascades was actually in, it's probably better protected.

Windy Gulch Cascades, 1/12/12.

Short But?
Short But?

Jon E. wrote:Anyone been up to Big Thompson recently?

was up there today - the upper falls is pretty fat.

Lookin to drop through Silverplume on Monday. Has anyone seen if the ice is in? If not, I will let you all know!

to anyone interested
all mixed up is pretty lean
hessie chimney is 90% dry
black lake area is getting even more hellish to get to due to a few more fallen trees and thigh deep wind deposits
odessa gorge area looks fat from a distance but the snow pack all around seems a bit scary
the crypt is worth a trip, approach skis recommended

eric bianciotto wrote:to anyone interested all mixed up is pretty lean hessie chimney is 90% dry black lake area is getting even more hellish to get to due to a few more fallen trees and thigh deep wind deposits odessa gorge area looks fat from a distance but the snow pack all around seems a bit scary the crypt is worth a trip, approach skis recommended

Any recent news on Nymph Lake or Glacier Gorge area?

Climbed Martha yesterday. Conditions were great, hard snow and alpine ice pretty much all the way.

Video of the crux pitches
youtu.be/Po3Xzvg9-QE

Martha Couloir, 1/13/12.

Clear Creek Canyon report:
Beer Gardens is starting to form but its thin and the river crossing is sketchy.
Coors Light has seen many ascents but it too is thin and delicate.
Mickey's 1st and 2nd pitch has started to form but again it's thin and hardly attached.
Red Stripe does not exist as of Sunday morning.
The weather report for the front range this week looks good for ice making but not good for climbing.

• If you decide to climb this stuff, please do it in the morning when its cold, not when its 60 degrees and sunny.