The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Anyone been to Rifle?

Elizabeth Riley wrote:Anyone know if the ice is in at Rifle?

I was in Rifle last week and final curtain was climbable, but pretty much all the pillars were spraying water and mostly unconsolidated icicles. And now it's been sunny and even warmer?
Topping out in the Octagon.

Any info on current conditions at Silverton/Eureka (specifically Stairway to Heaven)? I saw ozman's update from early Dec.

thanks, Michelle

fossana wrote:Any info on current conditions at Silverton/Eureka (specifically Stairway to Heaven)? I saw ozman's update from early Dec. thanks, Michelle

It slid yesterday, good sign! avalanche.state.co.us/obs/o…
I heard it was good on Monday but the temps have been really warm in Ouray the last few days, not sure about Silverton. There is a report on STH here from the 22nd ourayiceclimbing.blogspot.com/

How is the ice park at Ouray? I've never been, is it pretty much guaranteed to have nice ice since they farm it?

Thanks, Rodney [edit] and GR!

The skiing and climbing in silverton and ouray better be good! Ive been waiting years to have the money to make the trip out, and i finally am. I'll be there from the 5th to the 11th

David Appelhans wrote:How is the ice park at Ouray? I've never been, is it pretty much guaranteed to have nice ice since they farm it?

Yes, tons.

RE: Silverton...on the 26th, Whorehouse Hoses, Stairway to Heaven, Highway to Hell and Hoser's Highway all looked to be in decent shape from a climbing perspective.

I need help on this photo...my wife and I climbed this pillar below the lower bridge, among all the comp mixed routes....full pillar, fully protectable without clipping bolts...curious what they call it when it forms fully...closest to WI 5 feel I have ever had in the park really...

Culminator is the route in the picture, link below to MP page, awesome route

mountainproject.com/v/culmi…

thanks Kevin

Silverton
Heard Stairway slid twice I guess, but is in great shape.

Hoser's is in, bring some rock gear to get over the chockstone below main pillar. We rapped and left a v-thread at the top, there is a fixed LA with a biner above the pillar and slung a block to get down from the chocksone. It is in pretty reasonable WI5 condition.

Whorehose is super fat! Goes no problem

Goldrush is in pretty fun.

the gulley's are fat and not holding too much snow.

have been to mineral yet.

Camp Bird
The ribbon is in and awesome, a bit thin at the bottom

Bird Brain is in great shape maybe M5ish.

Telluride
Ames is in! really fun ice from bottom to top

Bridal Veil is in but really dry and plan on sending a lot of ice down on your belayer.

Its been warm here in the hills, yesterday Eagle was in the 50's, night above freezing. Lots of shrinkage in Vail. Strangely, Glenwood was a bit chillier...

Be careful out there.

FYI, a big slide came down across the valley from the Skylight area outside of Ouray late in the afternoon today (approx. 3PM). It came down the deep gully to climber's right of the routes known as "The Racing Stripes," was quite large and lasted much more than a minute. It had been warm and sunny all day and wind transport was obvious at ridgetop level. Aspect of those slopes is NW. Might want to factor this into consideration if planning other climbs on that side of the valley, especially the Ribbon.

Last night in Vail it only just dipped below freezing - any news on what it looks like? Be careful.

funkyicemonkey wrote:Last night in Vail it only just dipped below freezing - any news on what it looks like? Be careful.

It's a super fat year for Vail, was there yesterday (at the Firehouse).. More ice than usual on most of the routes. The warm days has melted snow allowing for the water to drip down into the climbs and the freezing nights have set the ice up really well. Best time to lead is in the morning when the pillars are secure.

Found a set of keys for Toyota with yakima rack keys on the key ring. The keys were found at East Firehouse Falls in East Vail. We moved the keys to the trailhead and tied them to a post at the parking area. Hope whoever lost them reads this and recovers their keys. ;)

funkyicemonkey wrote:Its been warm here in the hills, yesterday Eagle was in the 50's, night above freezing. Lots of shrinkage in Vail. Strangely, Glenwood was a bit chillier... Be careful out there.

Hmm, lots of 'shrinkage' eh? I've been climbing the last 5 days straight and continue to watch things GROW! I've never seen Vail so FAT in all the years I've climbed here. For kicks, here is an idea: Amphib has a 10' free hanger pure ice finish, 8mm is almost a pure ice climb, Titties and Beer exits the roof on ice instead of rock, Frigid is being led, and the Fang formed even though it snapped the dental-floos wire that helped it get there. Vail is having an unbelievable year and the warmer temps are having no real negative effects (mostly positive!) on the routes except for super-thin finishes like Dragons Tongue, which are delaming a bit. With the lack of snow and the Holiday, it's a circus up there. Enjoy!

Climbed pumphouse the other day, coming down from WA to summit county area for the winter -- this was my first time climbing ice in CO. And I agree it's SUPER good conditions. I can't speak from past years but I am utterly excited for how nice this ice was.

Being used to WA ice these conditions seem amazing to me. Would love to find some people to climb with and learn the area more. If anyone needs a partner let me know I'll be around with an open schedule. Coming back to that area starting Jan 9th/10th for the winter.

Cheers!

Avacado gully was very thin, if you do it you may need some cams to protext the hollow 10 inch wide delaminated pillar that is the crux.

As for shrinkage comment, I had just come from a recce in Glenwood canyon at night and had terrified myself.

Looking for a recient report on Lincoln falls, anybody been up there lately?