The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Forgot my Wisperlight and a pot below Alexander's Chimney on Sunday (30-Oct-11). It is stashed right below the start of the first pitch in a hole between Lamb's Slide and the rock. Probably buried by now but I won't be back up there for a week or so. Details in the Lost and Found Forum.

Good conditions up there too.

Andy, you crazy Brahhhh.... scratching up Longs in late october!!??

Does anyone have any condition reports for the Ouray or Eureka area?

Thanks

Tevis Blom wrote:Andy, you crazy Brahhhh.... scratching up Longs in late october!!??

scratching? na, solid sticks the first two pitches.

andy ducomb wrote:Forgot my Wisperlight and a pot below Alexander's Chimney on Sunday (30-Oct-11). It is stashed right below the start of the first pitch in a hole between Lamb's Slide and the rock. Probably buried by now but I won't be back up there for a week or so. Details in the Lost and Found Forum. Good conditions up there too.

I was up there on Tuesday and saw your stove and pot in the snow on the way up to the Chimney.

There was a lot of wind blown snow and evidence of recent minor avy activity. The portion of Lamb's slide had good wind scoured snow in the center, and heavy wind deposits on either side.

Your stove was in the center of one of these deep wind drifts, so I couldn't retrieve it without being stupid. We ended up bailing when we couldn't find a way we felt warm and fuzzy about to access the ice without crossing wind slabs. Hopefully we'll take another go at it soon.

danny m wrote:Does anyone have any condition reports for the Ouray or Eureka area? Thanks

STH is forming, but is quite a ways from being "in". Same with Whorehouse. 1st and 2nd are probably climbable -- we saw someone climbing on second gully today (or was it first? I forget). the gullies will be better in a week, though.

DNF is "in", but it's shite. an all-around mix of hollow ice, slush (not hero slush, either), and brittle, explosive ice. we bailed after making our way up to about the halfway mark (not via the ice, unfortunately).

campground looked a ways out from being any good, too.

that was this morning, where it was 4 degrees F at the start in S. Mineral. oh well, at least we got out and got some "scouting" in.

all in all, prolly best to follow the advice of Tits. "let it grow"

edit/add: no idea about Ouray. call the shop.

Steamboat Fish Creek Falls is starting to come in. Walked out to it last night and the bottom section looked good, but the upper still looked too thin/wet.

Anyone looking to climb give me a holler, I'm looking for a ice partner

Cheyne and I did Alexander's on Friday (Nov 4th). The approach was pretty darn windy, but it cleared up beautifully when the sun came up. We brought and used snow shoes on the way up, which were nice to have at times but not totally necessary. There was good quality sticky ice wherever it was needed, until the top of the chockstone pitch, which was quite thin above so we rapped from that point. Lamb's Slide was relatively consolidated when we were there, but is probably not so good at the moment because of the weather that the park was expected to get yesterday. There was no ice where you pull outside of the chockstone chimney, which is definitely ze croox, but still really fun and doable without.

Andy,
We dug all around for your stove but couldn't find it. I should have gotten more specific directions of where it was left.

I doubt the smear is going to happen this year, but my fingers are still crossed.

Any word on Hallett Chimney, Stoneman, or Right Chimney?

Kurt Ross wrote:Cheyne and I did Alexander's on Friday (Nov 4th). The approach was pretty darn windy, but it cleared up beautifully when the sun came up. We brought and used snow shoes on the way up, which were nice to have at times but not totally necessary. There was good quality sticky ice wherever it was needed, until the top of the chockstone pitch, which was quite thin above so we rapped from that point. Lamb's Slide was relatively consolidated when we were there, but is probably not so good at the moment because of the weather that the park was expected to get yesterday. There was no ice where you pull outside of the chockstone chimney, which is definitely ze croox, but still really fun and doable without. Andy, We dug all around for your stove but couldn't find it. I should have gotten more specific directions of where it was left. I doubt the smear is going to happen this year, but my fingers are still crossed.

Is Chasm Lake frozen yet for the speedy approach?

George Barnes wrote: Is Chasm Lake frozen yet for the speedy approach?

We did cross over the frozen lake. It was a little mushy in spots on the side closer to the climb though.

Walked up to pumphouse today. Forming but still wet. Spiral looks the same, but didnt walk up to it.

Timberline Falls 11/5 - although we were able to get one pitch, it is still needing time - very thin and brittle - loads of air and snow.

Loch Vale Gorge looks like its forming but not quite in.

Kol leading the upper falls below Sky Pond.
Progress.

Here's a little blog post on some ice. Pretty much there isn't much ice around. Need colder temps during the day in the San Juans and everywhere else. Lots of moisture, just not cold enough yet. Wonder what's going on in Hyalite or Cody.

I'm hoping to get up to Lincoln falls this Friday AM - anybody need a belay?

jmeizis wrote:Here's a little blog post on some ice. Pretty much there isn't much ice around. Need colder temps during the day in the San Juans and everywhere else. Lots of moisture, just not cold enough yet. Wonder what's going on in Hyalite or Cody.

Jeremy - I thought you guys got shut down with the road closure this weekend! Glad you got up there!

Actually, yestetday we did get shut down by the road and went to Shelf. I climbed Blind Assumption in October and had a buddy who did the same with Total Abandon. I haven't seen either since then bit judging by the weather there is probably more ice up there.

I received a couple PMs asking about more beta and photos on Alexander's so...

Lamb's Slide.

P1 from base.

Ze croox.

Cheyne checking out the super thin p4 before we descended (note: if it was in properly, the left-leaning ramp to his right is better).

Smear of Fear.

vimeo.com/31755590
Video by Cheyne

Kurt Ross wrote:I received a couple PMs asking about more beta and photos on Alexander's so... vimeo.com/31755590 Video by Cheyne

Love it! Nice work "K-Ross"!

Any word on Silverplume ice? Looking to get out the week of Thanksgiving.