cordolette, webbolette knots

Hey guys I'm pretty new so i have some really basic questions

I have 20 foot of cord for a cordolette and about 30 foot of 1" tubular webbing. My question is what knots are best for using these in cordolettes and such...

I know about the water knot for the webbing and also the double fisherman's for the cord, but is there any other knots that are better for tying these two types of materiel together to form a loop...

I was curious if a figure 8 follow through would work for the cordolette.... but do the follow through like you would a water knot if that makes sense...

any help would be awesome... i can research the knots i just need to know the name and a reason why it might be better.

A figure 8 follow through does work for cordelette. Unfortunately as far as webbing is concerned one of your only options is the water knot. The overhand knot in webbing will "roll" and come entirely undone when weighted. Often times when using cord (which is primarily what I use for building anchors, don't much use webbing unless it's to leave behind at a rap station) I'll just use a simple overhand knot with both strands- not a ring bend (which is a water knot but in cord) but an overhand. You could also do this as a figure 8.

ok that is kind of what i thought.... so if i understand you properly i can do a figure 8 but follow it though like i would a water knot so one tail is coming out of each side of the knot... right??? I posted a pic just so i know i'm getting the right information...

what would be the pro's and con's of using a double fishermans vs a figure 8 for a cordolette.

Yes, exactly. To be more specific though a figure 8 follow through when used to join two pieces of cord (or one in this case) is a Flemish bend. The advantages of this are when a Flemish bend is properly tied (dressed well) and then weighted, it should come undone relatively easy. A double fisherman's knot will be a little bit tougher to undo after it's been weighted. Also overhand knots and a figure 8 would work just as well.

OK sweet that is what i was wondering.... thanks for the info man... that answered my questions but if anyone has anything else to add i am all ears cause i want to learn everything i can..

Probably the best advice for you would be to not try to learn 15 knots to do the same thing. Keep it simple. If you need to make a loop out of cord, a double or triple fisherman (depending on material) works great. Water knot in webbing. Done and done.

Un-complicating stuff is the best way to go. I can imagine no situation where making a loop from cord or webbing would require anything but those two knots.

Knowing a lot of different knots is fun, but it's not necessary. If you learn to tie a big monkeyfist with a rock inside the knot, now there's hours of campfire fun. So learn that knot.

Learn the basics and then expand the range of your ropework knowledge as you expand your climbing.

Read accident reports and learn from them. It is just as important to learn what knot not to use in different situations.

Also, 1" webbing is really annoying cordalette style compared to a cordallete.

If you really want to learn as much as you can you should find an experienced leader to apprentice with, or if you want to maximize your learning to time ratio hire an AMGA guide for a day, and try to learn as much as you can from them. Some guides are better than others. Or take an Outward Bound mountaineering or climbing course.

Whatever route you choose, learning from someone who's an expert will greatly increase your rate of skill mastery, and also provide you real time feedback on your techniques and skills.

Andy Hansen wrote: ... Often times when using cord (which is primarily what I use for building anchors, don't much use webbing unless it's to leave behind at a rap station) I'll just use a simple overhand knot with both strands- not a ring bend (which is a water knot but in cord) but an overhand. You could also do this as a figure 8.

Andy Hansen wrote: ... Also overhand knots and a figure 8 would work just as well.

If I understand you correctly, Andy, you are suggesting that it is ok to tie your cordelette with a flat overhand (a.k.a. an EDK) or a figure eight. My understanding is that using a figure eight in this manner is extremely dangerous because of its propensity to roll easily.

Jeron, I would recommend going with the standard double fisherman's to join your cordelette, as I find there is rarely a need to untie it. If you go with a flat overhand, be sure to leave adequate tails, and it is probably best to use an overhand back up knot to minimize the risk of it capsizing; also be sure to check it frequently.

Cordelettes are most frequently used for building anchors. I strongly recommend that you get an experienced climber or guide to "show you the ropes" to make sure you understand what you are doing -- and that you are doing it correctly -- before committing to the rock.