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Black Diamond Aspect Climbing Harness **FAILURE** warning long post

bwalt822 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 0

A way to demonstrate slippage in a video is to put a piece of bright tape on the strap and then cinch it to say a quarter inch from the buckle so it isn't interfering somehow. Show the viewers the tape, take the safe fall and show the new position of the tape if the harness doesn't come unbuckled.

Brian Taylor · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 45

+1

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

From wiki, obviously so we can compare the facts to JL's #2:

Cipollini also became infamous for extravagant clothing, especially racing uniforms, sporting custom-made skin suits. Some of memorable kits include a muscle suit, zebra, and tiger prints, and a techno-skinsuit inspired by the 1982 movie Tron. ...

My eyes, my friggin eyes!

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
Greg Carlisle wrote:Everyone should get a Misty Mountain Harness......BEST HARNESSES EVER.....Tried and True.
+1

And will everyone stop citing Wikipedia please?! It's not a legitimate source, because it's open source.
Joseph Stover · · Batesville, AR · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 690

Glad no one was hurt... maybe this is an instance where innovation is bad... why invent a "new buckle" when a plain 'ol buckle works just fine? Yes, I'm speculating that the new buckle design was an issue.

Like I've been trying to find an old style metal spatula/turner and they are all newfangled-silicon-coated-flimsy-pieces... all I want is the old school slotted spatula... why change a product that is simple and works??? Gonna have to find one at a thrift store now...

With that said, new product designs are often good ideas... just that they are sometimes more marketing than improvement.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

+1 for johnL. and mark, i am working on getting a tron climbing suit...
and Ryan, cipo IS as legit as they get.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

Logged hundreds of days in Petzls with speed buckle waists, never had one slip ever, at all, period. It ain't about the speed buckle concept. Can't speak to the execution of the concept on BDs part.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

I just used the aspect all day today and tried to recreate the problem described with no success.

I think the OP's harness was not tightened down enough, this could cause ANY speed buckle to slip. Usually I use a BS Big Gun (trad buckles) with great success.

Speaking of Petzl, check out this pic. I was climbing one day and looked down to see a half rack of cams barely hanging on.

Petzl Corax.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

I'd rather take a fall on a harness with a defective gear loop than loosening buckles. Just sayin'...

Frank K · · Bishop, CA · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 30

That is the reason I will never buy a petzl harness, what a retarded design. I know of at least two people who have lost gear that way (which is a huge safety concern)

Kilroywashere! London · · Harrisonburg, Virginia · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280

i think its good for everyone just to shut up, get rid of their bds, and petzls, and just buy a f'n misty mountain...

JLee · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

I have for years a Petzl Sama with a speed buckle. Recently, I took one hell of a 40 foot fall on trad not too long ago (cam blew, but luckily not the next cam) and I did a 'gentle' ground fall (thank god for my attentive belayer who I owe my life, the unused rope coil which acted as a pillow, and the Mammut Infinity rope which has minimal elongation). Given the sudden force, my harness buckle did not give way one bit. It's more likely that BD's design or production batch is at fault.

Mike Bond · · Kentucky · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 3,191
RNclimber wrote:Facts: Harness: -Black Diamond Aspect Harness size small -Purchased from REI few months back(so legitimate product, not a knock off from what I've heard some petzl gear out there is) - I made sure I checked him and I before he started the 2nd climb AND I never took my harness off or did any adjustment on them after our last climb. To verify what happened, I put my harness back on the way it was, and sure enough, I tugged on the belay loop and the waist strap came sliding a few inches. ALL THREE straps (waist and 2 leg straps) were all doubled back and the ends were slip through the loops provided on the waist and leg strap.
Post video of recreating it! Seems unbelievable until you do.
Finn The Human · · The Land of Ooo · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 106
Mike Bond wrote: Post video of recreating it! Seems unbelievable until you do.
Why would someone lie about this? I think it's safe to assume it truly happened. The trick is determining whether or not it was user error or faulty equipment.
Chicagio · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

Just checking around the internet for some product reviews of this harness that may mention the loosening of the straps and there is a review for this harness on REI.com that mentions this issue.

I certainly know I cannot, in good conscience, recommend anyone purchase this particular harness anymore. Harness straps simply should not loosen. I will pass on the word to my other friends who also sell climbing gear.

I hope BD addresses this immediately.

(For what it's worth, I have the BD Focus and am a big fan.)

J. Thompson · · denver, co · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,425
John Wilder wrote: And John- i'm not sure why you think i'm an ass, but so be it- if helping the OP get in touch with BD and potentially resolve a safety issue means i'm an ass...then that's fine by me.
Don't sweat it, he's a world class douche bag.

josh
JPVallone · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 195
Ryan Williams wrote: +1 And will everyone stop citing Wikipedia please?! It's not a legitimate source, because it's open source.
And what kind of source is Mountain Project? How legitimate is MP?
Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562
John Wilder wrote: I'm baffled as to why you think that was speculation.
My point is simple. John Wilder doesn't know how BD will handle this or any other quality control issue, or when. You know what you have been told. A 2 minute search on the Internet should tell you how credible what you have been told actually is.

You wrote on this thread,

"I believe that if anyone has an issue, especially one involving safety, they should contact the manufacturer FIRST. Give them a chance to respond (quickly). Then post to the boards (and preferably let the manufacturer know they are doing this)."

"Thankfully BD has been notified and is investigating this particular issue and if there is a safety issue for a batch of the Aspect harnesses, they'll recall them and fix/replace them quickly."

Obviously the fastest way for climbers to become aware of a safety issue is by using forums and blogs. How long it takes a company to comment publically is anyone's guess.

When they do it is also obvious what the fastest way is to reach their market.

I no longer swallow the line of "we are all climbers and this keeps us up at night." The facts don't bear that comment out. Truth is we are climbers and it is your responsibility to come home at night. It is "their" responsibiity to sell us more gear every year.

Think not? Then why would the policy be, "spoke with someone from Warranty...."return it to REI to get a new Harness"...He re-assured me that their harness have been tested vigorously and that it only fails when not properly used."?
Stormeh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 20

OP? Where did you go?

Derick L · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 225
Stormeh wrote:OP? Where did you go?
Good question. Would still like to see that video very much.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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