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best alpine/ice boot

Original Post
athan · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 10

Hi, I'm moving to Bozeman from Jackson Hole...I'm looking to buy a really good boot for waterfall ice but also for alpine snow/ice days. I have a wide foot with a sixth toe to "boot".

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

JBaker Baker · · Belmont, MA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 15

not sure how they would fit your feet, but i LOVE my La Sportiva Nepals (aka "Rasta Boot). also pretty easy to find them used / cheap. i got mine for $150, used twice. they looked / felt brand new!

just make sure you put your name on them since it seems everybody (at least in the NE) has a pair.

Steve0 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5

I don't own either, but I recall hearing that the La Sportiva Nepal Evo's and the Scarpa Mont Blanc are fairly similar but the Scarpas are better fitting for a wider foot. Something to look into.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

It's going to be all about fit. I like the ls trango extreme evos but they're not very wide.

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

I love my Scarpa Cerro Torre XT's. I need a wide toebox and
Scarpas seem to do this great. They have other boots too--
check them out.
Good luck!

Jason S. · · Durango, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 150

+1 for the nepal evos. I have had mine for 3 seasons, and they are the most comfortable boot I have ever owned. just the right amount of flex in the last to walk very comfortably, but with a solid crampons they climb the steep stuff great. not the lightest boot on the market, but they are very warm. just make sure that your crampons fit them, because they have a rocker-ed sole that doesn't play well with older flat crampons in my experience.

jack s. · · Kamloops, BC · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

Go to Northern Lights and ask about boots. They don't have a big selection, but they have a guy in town who you can make an appointment with who has a wide selection that you can try on. I became frustrated buying boots on sale from the internet that never quite fit right. The only way to really know is to get the right boot fitted to your feet (at least for the first time). I ended up with the La Sportiva Nepal EVOs, but I have narrow feet. Your other option is to check out some stores in Seattle or Portland if you ever head that way.

Bud Martin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 380

I have the Trango Extreme's whoch are a perfect Hyalite/alpine boot, but they are a little narrow for my wider feet. If I could do it again I would go for the Scarpa Mont Blancs.

athan · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 10
JBaker wrote:not sure how they would fit your feet, but i LOVE my La Sportiva Nepals (aka "Rasta Boot). also pretty easy to find them used / cheap. i got mine for $150, used twice. they looked / felt brand new! just make sure you put your name on them since it seems everybody (at least in the NE) has a pair.
Baker, I grew up in Topsfield just a stone's throw away...what are you still doing there? Pssst...here's a little known secret, There are huge mtns to climb/ski out west...and the weather is 100xs better than New England's costal freeze.
athan · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 10

Thanks people...I'll look into both Nepal and Scarpa.

G Owings · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

I've really been liking the Kayland Hyper Traction this winter. They are my favorite ice boot to date and comfy enough for multi-day use.

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

The one that fits :-)

But I have a friend who has extremely wide feet. The guy looks like he has a set of duck's feet, seriously. La Sportivas run pretty narrow generally but he loves his Baturas. I always wondered how he managed that fit until I took a look at his boots. He gets the front half stretched out to fit his for-foot and then doesn't use the front couple of laces. The over gaiter takes care of the rest. He puts in something like 100 days a winter/spring/fall on ice or in the alpine climbing and guiding. All that in a boot I would never have suggested would fit his feet. He's on his second pair.

danny m · · All over · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 340

+1 for Sportivas for people with duck feet.

I have very wide feet and found that the Evo's were the only boots that fit my brick feet. Also tried on the Baturas and liked them alot too just was not a bit fan of the zipper/gaiter thing.

Owen Darrow · · Helena, mt · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,790

I have wider feet and I fit Scarpa better. I haven't bought any other boot for a while now. I have Scarpa tele, AT, climbing shoes, plastic boots, and hiking boots and they all fit great. They just fit wider feet better!

Matt J · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined May 2010 · Points: 70

I just spent a season in Hyalite climbing on trango extremes. The boots performed ok, the lack of ankle support was frustrating, as well as the lack of warmth. My feet were cold even on mild days, however that could be a circulation problem, I dont know...

A month ago I opted to step it up to a double boot! I picked up the Baruntse. Ive been out on them twice and cant belive the difference. Not only in warmth, but the support is priceless, especially on skis. I plan on keeping the extremes for mixed with short approaches ONLY. Beyond that, its all about the doubles.

They are a heavier boot, however I dont really seem to notice...

Curt Nelson · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 435

Just ordered a pair of Boreal Kangri's. They came highly recommended. I let you guys know how they perform. They also have a more specific ice boot the Cerro Torres and the G1 Lite is the big mountain bad boy. Mountain Tools are about the only place that sell them in the States. Their web site kind of sucks but the staff was very helpful if you call.

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

Boreal? Quality and service directly from Boreal has been spectacular for me. I have a pair of Ice Mutants that are stellar. I'll be interested in hearing what you think of the other "ice specific" boots. I tried on the Cerro Torre, the Kangri and the G1 Lite. Great fit on all three.

Curt Nelson · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 435

Ha! I thought you were the Ice Mutant, Dane. The Kangri"s are good so far. Super warm, I like the flexible neoprene top, plenty of toe room and the heal lock is probably the best I've found - I've had trouble in that department... I'm going to keep em and sell my other 2 pairs of Scarpa's.

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325

Can't speak to wide feet as mine are pretty narrow, but the Scarpa Phantom Guides are hands-down THE BEST ice boot I've ever worn. Before them, I was a satisfied LS Nepal Evo wearer.

I would not recommend the Kayland Hypertractions as, IMHO, they're Waaay too soft for vertical ice (at least in my size which is US12). Something like the M11+ might be good. Their newer last is a bit wider than the old one which ran pretty narrow.

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

Mutant? Man that is harsh ;-) The Mutant has a carbon fiber sole. Dead rigid..perfect. How are yours?

"the Scarpa Phantom Guides are hands-down THE BEST ice boot I've ever worn"

Wait till you get a chance to try on and use the Ultra. Surprizingly better.

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

I have super sensitive feet these days to the cold. Dbl boots for -15C or lower when given the option generally.

But the Ultras are so light, comfortable and fun to climb it is hard to stay out of them. I get a almost perfect fit n mine. Better by a good bit than the Guide because of the different liner.

I climbed in them a bunch this winter. On days I was freezing my ass off, full on shivering on route and my feet were fine. (-20 and windy) My feet were never even chilled, thank goodness. But those were one day affairs. They stay drier than my other two pair but still a couple of days out you'd have damp boots. Those were the same days I should have worn dbls and didn't. I got away with it and no harm done. That impressed me.

I'v heard of other comaprisons with the Guide especially that the Guide is warmer. I just don't see it in the Guide or the Batura and have (own) used all three. Both the guide and Batura are bigger volume (not so much on the Guide) and heavier. The Ultra will be my summer alpine ice boot as well. IMO perfect for anything in the Canadian Rockies with ice or mixed on it.

Ultra at 12K' in winter

All said the Nepal is an amazing boot as well.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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