The 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Did anyone get up to Lincoln Falls today to see what condition the ice is in? Thinking about heading that way tomorrow. North Clear Creek was a soupy mess. Still climbable, but it was super drippy by 230 when my climbing partner and I bailed. |
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Ryan N wrote:Has anyone climbed Esperanza in Silverplume?? Is it worth the effort to get to it??Yea went there today 12-4-10 and it SUCKS!!! Not worth the drive, hike, or time it takes to get there. |
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Ryan N wrote: Yea went there today 12-4-10 and it SUCKS!!! Not worth the drive, hike, or time it takes to get there.Bummer! Starting Saturday the 11th, Ryan - I will have a lot of free time. Lets try to get out again. |
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San Juans are generally good. Warm weather has knocked the avy danger down, but is starting to take a toll on some climbs. Ribbon is excellent (though no reliable pro for about the first half rope length - easy climbing here however). Skylight climbs are reportedly wet. There's a cool pillar in across from The Ribbon and above Senator Gulch that goes at about "IP5" ("Ice Park 5). Goldrush is reportedly in, but with the heat, might not still be. Dexter Ck Slabs look good from the road. Other Eureka stuff is good for the time of year. |
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Went to Lincoln yesterday and had a fun time. Besides the obvious Scottish Gully there are several other routes with interesting mixed or thin ice variations that can be done. |
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Whorehouse on 12-3. Super plastic one swing ice! |
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In Ten Mile today. Three Tiers was totally filled in with snow as well as the Chimney to the right of it. Bring some larger gear for the Chimney, as the ice is thin. This was mostly a snow slog and given the looks of Three Tiers we did not even go over there. The Shroud is in, but could use a some colder temps, and some more time to bond to the rock. Running water down the right side as we climbed it. Fun and steep. But I guess you should get on it now, as the Avi danger is only going to go up. Silverplume had numerous parties on it, as I passed, and guessing on previous posts, probably getting beat up. |
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Did Stoneman at Black Lake 05DEC10 top pitch was wet, and more importantly, if you are skiing the snow above the river on the hike past Mills Lake may not support body weight every where. |
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I was going to have some sick photos for you all of Birdbrain and the Ribbon, but see note below. Anyway, BbB is in great shape and is getting gang banged, I'd say it's been climbed 10x more in the last couple weeks than the last 3 seasons. But, be prepared for runout chossy slab climbing and since the little pillar down low has fallen I'd say it's M6ish (you can see the pillar in the above pic on BbB). Otherwise it's nice. The Ribbon is good sticky ice all the way. |
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Was up at Black Lake, Sunday 12/5. Lots of other ice around there, but mostly short, thin smears. The main flow we climbed is to the left in the photo, partially hidden by trees. Seemed like WI2, maybe. Then we moved on to the West Gully and did the first pitch and a half up to the lower bench: The crux was super fun, and quite plastic: The snow cone leading up to the base is still firm beneath, but getting covered in powder (6-8" so far). Some wallowing was experienced, especially on the descent. The climbs to the right appear to be in (photo taken on the descent): |
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Does anyone have a current update on Vail conditions? Thanks |
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Tom Willard wrote:Does anyone have a current update on Vail conditions? Thanks Firehouse: just the central gullie. Everything else is growing and thin. Staircase: in but very wet this week with the high temps. Ampitheatre: "Designator" is in but suuuuuuuuuuuuper wet and chandeliered; to my knoledge, has not been climbed yet. Mixed lines like "7th Tentacle" or "cup cake" are in. |
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FWIW, Boulder Canyon as of 12/7/10 - Lower Falls, mixed...at best. Not worth the gas. Upper Falls - barely in. Some of it is an inch thick. Right side isn't in. Lots of water flowing, but mostly down 2 lines. |
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Any word on conditions in Coal Creek Canyon? |
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Curious about the road conditions down |
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Vail (12/10) |
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Headed to Lincoln this morning, 70 was a mess so we veered off back down clear creek. Thought about wasting time at blackhawk...instead went and checked out coors lite. Nothing in yet, 2nd pitch right sheet 6 feet off the ground...really wet, anyone thinking about farming? |
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matt thomas wrote:Headed to Lincoln this morning, 70 was a mess so we veered off back down clear creek. Thought about wasting time at blackhawk...instead went and checked out coors lite. Nothing in yet, 2nd pitch right sheet 6 feet off the ground...really wet, anyone thinking about farming?3 hours from Broomfield to Keystone... Poached some great powder runs though!! |
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Climbed at the Chaos Creek area today in RMNP. The "Olympic Games" Pillar is not formed. The "Luge", "Slalom Skiing", and "The Bobsled" are all very thin and not well formed. |