The 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Kevin Craig wrote:Info or photos not posted by others (thanks to all)... worth noting that the first crux on DNF (photo posted by Erik W) is, I agree, solid (Cody/Canadian) WI4, but dry, chandeliered and chopped out. Not much decent pro, so basically solo, but one with good hooks. A local guide who climbed the route agreed with this assessment. Also the up-valley climb(s) in Eureka that I mentioned as possible are Burns Gulch and the other climbs in the "Three Stooges" area in Roberts' guide (didn't have it with me at the time). As of yesterday, you could still drive to them in a "regular" AWD vehicle (with snow tires).

Kevin,

Did you get to see the Ames Ice Hose?

I didn't but we ran into a Ouray local, "Philippe," who said (or heard maybe?) it was close. Sorry, not very useful.

Hiked up to Hidden Falls yesterday and it was definitely on its way to forming. Maybe a few more days or a week and it will be pretty good!!! It was thin, but the ice that was there was pretty solid.

The road in is already closed so the hike starts from the winter parking lot....

Regards,

Seth

Lower curtain.

Upper section.

Smaller flow to the Left of Hidden Falls major.

Climbed a little afternoon route yesterday up cataract gulch. We had a good storm come through yesterday.

Cataract Gulch. Both pitches can be seen. Only enough daylight for the first pitch though.

Does anyone have recent pictures or updates on Martha / Dreamweaver conditions since Kevin's thread kickoff on Oct 11? Thanks.

Vail update:

nothing yet other than the puphouse guys (still thin, climbable and already climbed but better let it grow)

-firehouse: not touching down yet
-spiral satircase: barely touching, let´s let it grow before we ruin it!
-ampitheatre: nothing yet. Some of the mixed lines to the left of The Fang are starting to hold more ice, not good for pro though yet.

I thought I'd finally contribute.
I've been climbing around Ouray/Silverton for the past week now... As of Today, Camp Bird has some great climbs in, the Ribbon in particular. Skylight is melting, and routes further up the road are looking better. Up Red Mountain Pass, Bear Creek I have check on twice - both time I've peered over the rail of the bridge it has partially collapsed. Horsetail falls has grown the past several days, but has a way to go. Many of the Routes in South Mineral Basin are looking great! Whorehouse hose had numerous large blocks of ice at the base of the route yesterday, the first pitch was very wet.

Photos for your enjoyment...

The Ribbon.

Bear Creek Falls, now you see the ice....

Now you don't!

Eureka, CO.

I can't speak from having seen it this year, but the spot in RMNP that ALWAYS forms in great shape early season is Deep Freeze and Dry Ice. Go get it boyz!

I talked to some friends in Telluride yesterday. Looks like the Ames Ice Hose is still a ways off from being completely formed.

The last pitch is IN. Second pitch is partway down the chimney and the first pitch is all rock. No ice yet.

Looks like the best bets for ice climbing are off of Camp Bird Road...............

Brown Guy wrote:Does anyone have recent pictures or updates on Martha / Dreamweaver conditions since Kevin's thread kickoff on Oct 11? Thanks.

EDIT: I'm also curious to know what snow conditions are like in the funnel above Martha and on the E. Face descent. Thanks for any info.

Climbed Snowblind in S. Mineral on Wed 11.17. Pretty wild, lots of chandeliers, etc. Excellent, interesting condition right now. Good rap anchors all the way back down.

Have fun!

Took the gear out for a walk today up to chasm junction. Crazy weather up there. 43 degrees in the parking lot at 4:45am this morning, with high wind gusts up to an estimated 60-70 mph above treeline.
We planned to climb alexanders, but we saw no ice in the chimney from chasm junction. Smear of fear had some ice, but it's still a few hundred feet away from the ground. The loft has some ice. Didn't see any ice in dreamweaver.
Happy hunting!

C. Trimble wrote:Climbed Snowblind in S. Mineral on Wed 11.17. Pretty wild, lots of chandeliers, etc. Excellent, interesting condition right now. Good rap anchors all the way back down. Have fun!

Also the road seems to have been plowed up there.

Vail: Rigid Designator/Spiral Staircase.
The only leadable ice that we found was on Secret Probation, which was as good as it ever is. The Designator is ten feet from touchdown. The Fang does not exist. The Frigid Inseminator is close to ready, but forming 10 feet to the left of the normal position (moving past the second bolt looks like it might be hard) The Pencil and Eraser are close to ready. The Spiral Staircase is vertical slush. To the west of the Fang there appear to be several new M-double digit rock only routes.
The bridge that we normally cross is out. To get there we crossed the bridge that is 100 yards West of the pumphouse, and then followed the snowshoe path on the South side of the creek.

Any news of Officers Gulch?

Thank you,

Dale

Dale, I posed that question the other day and David Sweet wrote:

"I went over there last week before the big snows hit and it was completely dry - a few little drips coming down the shroud and nothing else. So...by now it will probably be dry and with a big avy load above."

No first hand knowledge though.

Dale D wrote:Any news of Officers Gulch? Thank you, Dale

we recently climbed Tony's nightmare and Around the corner.
We soloed the first one (which by no means is WI4 as described here, nor it is 80ft, but more like 40.)
We had been to "Around the Corner" 3 weekes ago in lean conditions. Now it was fully in, but wet. The approach somehow tedious as the snow is much deeper and the last 1/3 of the approach through the gully had a significant avalanche debrie pile, probaby released right after the storm earlier this week. The climb is steep with 1 good rest 2/3 of the way up on the left.
We also aknowledged 2 parties in the gully next to the right (west)
Tony's Nightmare.

Around the Corner.

Climbed Hoser's Highway in Eureka on sat. 11/20. awesome climb, interesting mixed pitch, beautiful pillar. Did some community service and installed new rock anchor (pin, nut) at top of final pitch (black webbing off right). All the new snow might make things a bit sketchy though...

Elias de Andres:

Thank you for the good news. Did you by chance look at Three Tiers? I have some beginners I need to take.

Thanks,

Dale

Dale D wrote:Elias de Andres: Thank you for the good news. Did you by chance look at Three Tiers? I have some beginners I need to take. Thanks, Dale

Drove past it today. I'd say it's sufficiently in. Be careful though, was snowing as we went past and is almost certainly getting more.