mt watkins south face

any one been on this route that can offer any beta?
thanks

To do Watkins reasonably quickly you will need to be very proficient at .10c/d - .11a cracks of different sizes, otherwise you will be aiding a lot. The ratings are "old school" Yosemite, so don't expect anything soft for the grade. The route does go free, except for 10 or so moves at .12 something. (or maybe it goes all free now?) We did it free up to the mid .11 area and spent a long day and a half on the actual wall. You can also climb the whole deal at 5.9,C2 if that is how you want to approach it - I would allow three days + approach etc. if you are not a super fast aid guy.

Be sure to take multiple pieces of larger pro - like several each of #2,3 and 4 Camalots. (I am guessing on the number and sizes as we used rigid stem Friends back when I did it) You will find that you need them up higher.

Last, the trade routes on the Captain such as the Nose, Salathe and Lurking Fear are far less serious undertakings. The SF is not a giveaway but has some of the best crack climbing you will ever do.

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