Need a sturdy all day trad edging shoe

5.10 Pitons are pretty stiff. I think the combination of the harder Onyx rubber and the rand that goes all the way over the toes makes the shoe better for edging, at least better than my other 5.10 shoes (spires, coyotes).

At the 5.10 store here in redlands, in addition to selling their shoes at nearly 1/2 price, they also sell a thin, firm, plastic "insole" that supposedly provides additional stiffness. The thought of standing on a piece of white plastic all day has kept me from testing this out.

Strong feet and toes are a big help too.

Your description has Acopa JB written all over it...

"I need a sturdy all day trad edging shoe.
I'm trying to get about as far away from a slipper as I can get.
Looking for a stiffer sole and foot platformn with plenty of good rubber. Sort of an old school shoe with todays technology."

Except this part...

"I need to keep the cost as low as possible."

You can't have everything. They're sized small, best if you can find them in a store to try on. They don't stretch much either.

Kevin Stricker wrote:The sad truth Tom is that the shoe you want is not currently made. There are no board lasted shoes that I am aware of currently on the market. There are those who try to be edging shoes ( i.e. TC's, Legends, Technos) but really all those shoes need to be sized aggressively to be able to edge, which negates all day comfort. I am sure some here will disagree, but unless you have worn Aces, Kaulkulators, Synchros, Focus, or Ballets you really don't know what a stiff all day high performance trad shoe is. Were talking planks here man! There is no way you can compare any Anasazi(even the now extinct Mesa), Tradmaster(yea RIGHT!), or Pontas Lace (Great shoe BTW) with Synchros, Focus, or Aces when it comes to standing on small edges for a long time. If you think otherwise, send me an email and I will give you a route to test your edging abilities on. It is not a question of standing on a dime, more a question of standing on $2.00 worth. R.I.P. to the age of Slaberius Maximus. Just suck it up and take an extra Alieve in the morning before stuffing your toes into the "shoes of the future", or haunt E-bay like the rest of us slab junkies.

+1 vote for the JB's and Legends!

ACOPA FOR LIFE!

I agree about the Ballets and stuff but I don't think a shoe has to be board lasted to edge well or last all day. My last two pair of shoes are both slip lasted and they edge great. I don't really like the Ballets for edging but they're perfect for cracks and friction.

I bought some La Sportiva Scoprpians for gym climbing but I'm liking the all around at this point... decent price too. Still, I use JB's or Ballets out on the rock though.

Tom, what size shoe do you wear? I have a pair of size 9 1/2 FiveTen Newtons I'd sell you for a good price. They're board lasted, stiff as hell and brand new in the box. I bought them as a back up pair but my current Newtons will likely outlive my climbing career.

If you're willing to spend a little I suggest the Pontas Laceups. They're pretty stiff and edge like a champ.

Doug

+1 for the TC Pro's. Expensive but they edge like a mofo.

Old days = Boreal-Ace. Now days = Scarpa-Vision.