Unofficial Boulder Offwidth List
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Peter Spindloe wrote:Dreams Of Darkness and Dreams Of Light and maybe this qualifies too Sick and Wrong all in Eldo up at Sobo.Peter's done all of those too, but- if you've done Dreams of Darkness, you've done the whole wide part of Dreams Of Light, so not much more to say with that one. Sick and Wrong- not so wide. Bacon and Ergs at Physical Crag is OW, bordering on a squeeze chimney- got to include that fun one. |
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For some fun, sandbagged 5.7-8 fun, make sure to do Ruper in Eldorado canyon, and also Cussin' Crack on Castle rock in Boulder Canyon. Cussin' crack is probably the hardest 5.7 I've ever climbed, I was totally sweating and pumped. Huston crack on Cob rock in Boulder Canyon is also great. |
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The Acrophile in South St. Vrain, has a wide overhanging section, but it might be more in the category of wide cracks that require some offwidth technique. |
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I betcha everything mentioned so far on this list (well, at least those with legal access) gets more ascents than On-Slot up at Continental Crag in Eldo. |
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On-slot is really good, but if I remember correctly, you can avoid the offwidth at about the same grade. The route is definitely worth doing. |
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Went up to Bacon and Ergs on Sunday. Awesome line, but man did I get worked. So far, the hardest OW I have found in Boulder County. The approach is kind of long to make it a "proj" so I hope I can toughen up and send it before all of the hiking up there makes my quads too big to fit in the crack. |
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Jason Haas wrote:On-slot is really good, but if I remember correctly, you can avoid the offwidth at about the same grade. The route is definitely worth doing.Agreed, but avoiding offwidth is part of the crux of doing it, from my perspective... Otherwise Turn Korner (10b) on Lumpy NEEDS to be on this list (And yes, I failed to turn the corner and did do the OW). Plus, Turn Korner is one of the best 5.10's of any sort in the state and just plain deserves to get done. Hmmm. I am surprised nobody has mentioned Horn's Mother (11a), though that's not Boulder County, it's as close as the Splatte. Funeral March (5.9) anyone: mountainproject.com/v/color… At least it is a short approach. Take big gear or run it out! |
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I thought Funeral March was a bit of a pile. It's on the list now, anyway. |
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Buildings often have good training offwidths. If you climb one very day eventually they will start to seem reasonable. Is there anything on the CU Campus? |
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There is a buildering problem we call Blockbuster Offwidth in the shopping center at Arapahoe and 28th. |
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Some flatirons Offwidth not to miss (though some have seasonal closures: |
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This is a great list of offwidths you guys are compiling. Most of them I've never heard of. Euclid's Corner, on the other hand, cannot be considered an offwidth in my opinion. The upper overhanging section is wide for sure, and spectacular, but if you climb it right side in you're pretty much lying on your back. I bet it feels (and looks) harder climbing it like Tony's second in the photos. I am NOT a strong offwidth climber and the wide part of this pitch felt number grades easier than the thin-corner-crack business on the lower part, and required no offwidth techniques. Just my two cents.......... |
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jason seaver wrote: While we're straying so far from the "Boulder area", what about Road Warrior on Evans? Not a winter route, but seemingly one of the best lines of multi-pitch wide crack goodness in the state.there is certainly about as much OW on Road Warrior (5.10+) as on about any other climb I can think of, and it is real OW climbing too! No cheater grips on the inside of the crack to hang out on... Seems a majority of people think it is harder than Crack Of Fear. Is that really a consensus? |
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Crack of Fear lives up to it's name as it's scary. Road Warrior is not. Apples to Oranges. |
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Another 'easy' route is Osiris, on the book at Lumpy Ridge. Only given 5.6, the first pitch is wide the whole way with some smaller gear placements. It looks like you can layback it, but it only works in a few spots. Lots of arm barring and chicken wing type moves. The grade is easy, but the route would freak out a new leader (most likely). |