sport climbs on mt. lemmon and ridgeline?

Hi. I am visiting Tucson and would like a recommendation for somewhere to go on mt. lemmon this Saturday to find a concentration of sport climbs or TR's in the 5.5 -5.9 range. We did practise wall last weekend and then ended up spending 2 hours trying to find ridgeline without sucess. Is it used at this time of year? No tracks or trails were found despite directions in book...

Dennis,

Nobody goes to Ridgeline this time of year, way too cold. The ruins has sport starting at 5.8/5.9 and is low. There aren't many 5.5 to 5.7 sport climbs low on the mountain.

Eric

Thanks for the replies. What about lefthand wall at hairpin turn?
It appears to have a number of sport climbs and easy approach.
Is the bolting fairly even here or are there a lot of runouts to worry about?
I also wonder about Munchkinland?

Dennis

Munchkinland will probably be colder than ridgeline.

Lefthand wall is okay, there are a few in the 7-8 range, I haven't done the ones that are up the scree past Big Bull. There is new stuff posted on this site that is not in the book for Hairpin. As I recall, the new 5.8 on the far left(P1 of scorpion king?) is closely bolted and easy climbing, the rock may be a bit dirty. the 5.8's on the main lefthand wall have hard starts and then are okay after that, I recall the bolting as being standard sport.

Rivendale might be okay. mostly 5.8-5.9, thin but slightly lower angle. Faces north though I think and is harder to find than ridgeline.

For stuff below 5.8, I can't think of anything down low.

I too am looking for the same and I was going to try the Prison Camp area next time I'm down there. There is a route on Alcatraz Wall (Hoosgal 5.5)that I have heard you can set up a TR if you get a belay to the anchors, and there is cellblock six 5.6 on the cellblock. Reportedly there is is a 5.4 and a 7 sport route at Boothill, the wall above the parking area at the end of the road as you look up and left.

This site hase good beta on Boothill and Munchkinland and climbaz has more stuff on Alcatraz and Cellblock heck the whole Prison area.

Camping and parking is good and the approaches are 20-30 min tops but i havent been to Boothill yet.

Munchkinland is probably pretty cold but has a 5.4 and 5.5 plus the 5.9 and up stuff, the approach is 25-35 mins from the free parking mentioned in the guide unless you are very speedy.

Happy climbing and I'd be interested to hear what you end up doing and how it was. Jim

the gumby wall is arguably the best area for easy sport (10 or so climbs in the range you specified) but it's a bit high on the mountain for this time of year. though if you're climbing on an unnaturally warm day (like 70f) you might try heading up there.

Now that I think of it, I have done the ones on the left at Hairpin. they are nice and long, and of pretty good quality. They won't get any sun, but are pretty much as low on the mountain as you can get.

I'd recommend those. You might need a 60m rope for them.