SLCD Testing Protocols

All this talk of failure has me thinking about the basics.

Question: What all comprises an industry-acceptable protocol for realistically testing SLCDs, WITHOUT compromising the strength of the unit?

The precursor to that question, of course, would be establishing realistic limits (a safe working load) that would represent a reasonable range of force generated through a moderate climbing fall (but not a 120' factor 2 fall).

We keep hearing that this cam is pull tested, that cable is pull tested.

Who really cares, if we don't know the details behind how the test was conducted and a standard to know if it is realistic??? When I hear of someone's testing in response to a failure, I want to know the whole protocol and how it compares (or doesn't) to the real situation and competitors protocols -- not just that it was 'pull tested to 1750 lbs'; that doesn't really give us much to go on when trying to determine how much faith to put in gear. Maybe blind faith is the best, but the enginerd in me prevails.

Also, anyone familiar with the UIAA standards?

I would be particularly interested to hear from those engaged directly in the climbing gear industry!

I have no connection to the gear industry, except that, like everybody else here, I contribute to keeping it in business. But since you mentioned the UIAA standard, here is the link.

Brenta, based on your link, one can also find the spec, which really just says they have to meet EN-12276, except it doesn't have to have the 'EN-12276' stamp. uiaa.ch/web.test/visual/Saf…

Index of UIAA Standards:
uiaa.ch/?c=310

There's a whole blurb on there about how UIAA standards rely on EN standards, but they do not restate the EN standards for duplicity and copyright reasons.

Maybe someone has a copy of EN-12276?

Reference number EN 12276:1998
Document title Mountaineering equipment - Frictional anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
CEN publication date 1998-09-23

Reference number EN 12276:1998/AC:2000
Document title Mountaineering equipment - Frictional anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
CEN publication date 2000-05-24

You can buy a copy on line from the British Standard Institute for 58 pounds. If you can read other languages, you can shop around. The Italian version of the same document is a mere 27 euros. The French institute sells both a French version and an English version for 46.25 euros. Each national institute sets its own prices. I've been curious myself about these standards, but I've never managed to convince myself that the money would have been well spent. We are talking about 12 pages for EN12276. Take out the fluff and the Mumbo Jumbo, and I'm not sure one finds much more than in the "pictorial description" on the UIAA site.

BTW, this site has the links to the various national sites.