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Drew Allan
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Apr 26, 2007
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Denver/Aspen
· Joined Apr 2002
· Points: 120
Just wondering which pair you like the most in hand and/or thin cracks at IC. I have been in Mythos for years and feel a need to change or add to the mix. Let me what you think.
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AWinters
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Apr 27, 2007
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NH
· Joined Apr 2007
· Points: 5,120
Five-ten Moc slippers, no laces, no velcro, nothing to get in the way. Easy in and easy out. Best crack climbing shoe, hands down. (this is only my opinion, yadda yadda)
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Kevin Hadfield
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Apr 27, 2007
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New Castle, CO
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 480
To be honest I love Boreal Aces in the Creek. Got mine resoled with C4 and replaced old laces with shock cord. You generally can get these super quality shoes for cheap used, but they will last.
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SirVato SirVato
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Apr 27, 2007
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Boulder
· Joined Sep 2003
· Points: 405
Testarossa's 3 sizes too small. . . J/k I got a pair of Kaukulators and had them re-soled w/ onyx Nice board lasted shoe for crankin down on the feets. The toe profile is too fat for anything less than a #1 crack.
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Zach Allen
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Apr 27, 2007
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 55
5.10 Pitons. I swear they make thin hand cracks a grade easier. Soft like a slipper but dipped in rubber and roomier in the toe box.
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Buff Johnson
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Apr 27, 2007
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2005
· Points: 1,145
Kayland super ice with G-14s, every foot placement is bomber, ideal for a sporty choss pile of sand. Still though, the OWs require my red chilis, perfectly customized from Rock & Resole.
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Drew Allan
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Apr 27, 2007
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Denver/Aspen
· Joined Apr 2002
· Points: 120
Zach, How did you size your pitons? I have a nine foot and thought about staying at a nine. Not too tight and not too loose. You agree? BTW, you need to change that e to an a in your last name!
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Monty
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Apr 27, 2007
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Golden, CO
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 3,530
la sportiva mythos for those nice hand cracks, and the 5.10 moc slipper for anything smaller. I don't recommend the slipper in any crack bigger than thin hands.
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AWinters
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Apr 27, 2007
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NH
· Joined Apr 2007
· Points: 5,120
I do, they work everywhere.
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Monty
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Apr 27, 2007
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Golden, CO
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 3,530
It depends how you size them, if they're more lose fitting they would be fine. But if you bought them very tight for bouldering and sport, they will have you screaming at the top.
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Dave Stewart
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Apr 27, 2007
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Longmont, CO
· Joined Aug 2005
· Points: 155
I climbed in Boreal Aces for the last couple of years at the Creek. I used to love them but then I got some Mythos. Mythos are way better. It feels like I can actually grab cracks with my foot. But now I just busted a lace. It seems like a pain in the ass to replace those things. (I haven't tried yet.) Someone should make metal cable laces so they don't get cut so easily.
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AWinters
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Apr 27, 2007
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NH
· Joined Apr 2007
· Points: 5,120
true, i did size mine comfortably.
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Zach Allen
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Apr 27, 2007
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 55
Drew - I went with 1/2 size below my street shoe size. They are comfy enough for all day routes. That is the same way I size my anasazis for sport climbing (tight) but the pitons are cut roomier so the fit is more comfy at the same size.
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camhead
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Apr 30, 2007
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Vandalia, Appalachia
· Joined Jun 2006
· Points: 1,240
Monty wrote: I don't recommend the slipper in any crack bigger than thin hands. I do.
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Tony B
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May 1, 2007
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Around Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 24,665
La Sportiva Kaukulators. Possibly the best trad shoe ever made, if they fit your feet right. They were built on the Mythos last, but stiffer and with high-tops. Sportiva quit making them, but I got my 2 pairs! Check Ebay for your size...
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