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to trad or not to trad

Original Post
patrick o · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 0

OK, Moab is known as a great place to go, but I am a virgin to the area. I've been climbing for about 10 years (8 years of trad), My rack includes:

Black Diamond nuts (03-13) x 2
Hexes (3', 2', 1.5')
Tri-cams (first 8 sizes)
alien cams (6 sizes, all smaller than 2 inches)

I've hit:
New River Gorge
Seneca Rocks
Gunks
Joshua Tree
Yosemite Valley
Smith Rocks
Eldorado Cannion

So I know I can climb, BUT... I am under the impression that climbing in Moab area, requires a full rack of Cams because the rest is unsafe (the rock is weak). I want to know is there a place that I can go in the area that the rock is solid enough to use what I've got?

Please advise...

thanks,

patrick o

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

it's not that the rock is weak, it's just that so much of it is parallel 3" cracks that go on forever. with that rack there are a few routes you could do in wall street, ancient art in the fishers, owl rock in arches, and maybe a few other widely scattered routes.

mortgage your house to buy cams and you'll have a lot more options. or you can surf topropes/pool gear at indian creek.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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