Climbing Near Taylor Ridge, Illinois

A beauteous hunk of riverside stone. Crisp frictiony dolomite with roofs, vuggs, and techy edging. Highball testpieces, traditional headpoints, or safe but sporty top ropes await for whatever your persuasion may be. A stones throw from I-80 (7 min from the exit) for the traveling disbelievers that Iowa has decent climbing or looking to stretch their legs and break up the endless cornfields of middle America. The crag is seemingly made for testy highballs with most cruxes at 8-10 feet followed by jug top outs. Be smart. Your tibias won't judge you for top rope rehearsal.  Turn off Highway X40 into the lovely hamlet of Cedar Valley on 255th Street. Take it to its terminus. On the right will be Cedar Valley County Park. Turn left onto the dirt road and take it to the end where it dead ends in a dirt lot. Take onto foot and follow the trail north, under the highway bridge. Admire the graffiti work. Continue for another approximately 200 yards where the boulder awaits. All lines accessible for rope tree anchor top rope setups from hike around left or right.  Left side routes have a mega three trunk tree with intermediate trees along the whole face - 50ish ft of rigging material seems about right, could get away with less.  Right overhang has several trees set back - brink 60ish ft of rigging material. 

Generally shaded. Landings tend to be on a down slope, so best come with an active spotter. Tops will need cleaning and there is more to be cleaned than posted on MP. Once parked, head toward bridge behind the pavilion. Go across the bridge that goes over Prairie Creek and continue straight until you come to a "T" in the mowed trailed directly in front of the treeline and you should see a sign that reads, "Hiking Club Trail." This is the orange trail on the map. Go left and continue until you start seeing the rock lines on your right and the creek on your left starts to behind like a horseshoe. This is the main area thus far. There are small, faint trails travsing the cliff lines, which will lead you up to the boulder problems.

Rock is very similar to the rock quality found at Joinerville and is generally shaded. When tops, landings, and holds are cleaned, it is good rock and does not break. On the day I visited, I lucked out on meeting county park officials who take care of the park and do not mind bouldering. Do not rope climb, do not bolt, and do not climb near or in the archeological area. Practice best practices, leave no trace, and be respectful. The best approach to accessing the cliff lines is from the pavilion parking, which is located inside Prairie Creek Recreation Area. To access the parking, enter the park on the west side via the entrance at the corner of Jacobsen Drive and Summit Street in Maquoketa. The Pavilion is located at the end of the blacktop in the park.Once parked, head toward bridge behind the pavilion. Go across the bridge that goes over Prairie Creek and continue straight until you come to a "T" in the mowed trailed directly in front of the treeline and you should see a sign that reads, "Hiking Club Trail." This is the orange trail on the map. Go left and continue until you start seeing the rock lines on your right and the creek on your left starts to behind like a horseshoe. This is the main area thus far. There are small, faint trails travsing the cliff lines, which will lead you up to the boulder problems.There is potential also near the caves. To reach this area, do not cross the bridge. Instead, walk down to prairie creek behind the pavilion and follow the creek west. Once in the woods, you will start noticing rock outcroppings and the caves.