Climbing Near Lomas de Santa Anita, Baja California

The crag is southeast facing, with solid granite, and a decent concentration of over 40 climbs from 5.8-5.13. It offers everything from clipping bolts on well protected face climbing and sport routes, to thin gear on finger cracks, and chimneys/OW. Navigate to Barrett Mobile Home & RV Park on Barrett Lakes Road.  A single lane, paved asphalt road heads west.  A gate is located at approximately 32.6215118, -116.6956615.  If it is open, you can proceed up the road, passing a short 5.9 crack and making a hairpin turn to end up facing southwest.  Park on the right at the start of an abandoned dirt road (visible in satellite photos) at 32.62330, -116.70326.Follow the dirt road until it ends, then continue uphill encountering overgrown braided trails and occasional abandoned water bottles and other detritus ("South County cairns") left behind by cross-border hiking enthusiasts.  At some point you need to leave the coyote trails to break right towards the rock, crossing an obvious gully/drainage.  Consider bringing pruning equipment for the brush and be prepared for occasional steep, unconsolidated dirt slopes.

Dos Cumbres is located at the outskirts of the town of Tecate, in a small secluded community called San Pablo. Please be kind and respectful with the locals; they don’t bother us and are pretty respectful towards us, so we are trying to keep it that way. It’s a small granite buttress with pretty cool routes. The rock is pretty solid and not too harsh for your fingers. It is up a steep hill that might take you from 30 to 40 minutes, or 20 to 25 minutes for “fit¨ people. It does not get crowded, because not too many people know about it. Right now, there are around 25 sport routes and around 6 trad routes. All very enjoyable, but very tough too, and that’s the downside because there are not too many routes for 5.10 climbers. If you´re planning to come, make sure to come with a strong Rope Gun. A few routes are accessible to set up top ropes, but the approaches are sketchy, so I would not recommend it. The buttress is facing from southeast to southwest, so it gets shaded in different areas depending on the time. Best seasons for climbing are late Fall, Winter, and early Spring. Forget about it in the summer unless you get there around 6 am to climb in the southwest-facing routes, and around 2 pm, you start climbing on the southeast-facing routes.  From Tijuana, it takes around 45 to 1 hour, and that depends on whether you take the toll road or the regular road. Just type in Google Maps ¨Cima San Pablo¨ and it will get you there.When you get to the community, you´ll see the buttress right in front. Drive all the way until the main road ends, then turn right, and you´ll see a big white water depository. Park there and follow the trail, and like I mentioned above, it will take you some time to reach the top.OPTION B: Less than 1k before arriving at the community of Rancho Dos Cumbres (see Dos Cumbres section to know how to get there), there is a dirt road to the left of the road that will take you to "Albercas Joe Bill" (Check this info on Google Maps for an exact location). Follow the dirt road, on the split turn right and follow the dirt road as it swivels its way up hill. Once you get to the top, turn right. All vehicles can access the area, but be careful after a rainy day; the road is not that great, and after heavy rain, the road gets really muddy, and in some parts it gets washed away, leaving ditches all over the road, so proceed with caution 

UPDATE: To get to the routes of the south face, hike to the top of the wall and head south till you get to a plateau with some boulders piled up. You´ll see a boulder with some rocks stacked on top; that is where the rappel station is. Be safe UPDATE: No more access issues. The place is up and running. A southwest-facing buttress of pure granite. From end to end, the wall is around 200+ meters long, and around 100 meters at its tallest point. Finally, we have the green light to develop the area, and finally, there is an easy way to get to the area without trespassing on private properties. So far, 47 routes have been developed all over the place with grades ranging from 5.9 to 5.12+.Hopefully, this will turn out to be an amazing spot for sport, trad, and multipitch climbing. Less than 1k before arriving at the community of Rancho Dos Cumbres (see Dos Cumbres section to know how to get there), there is a dirt road to the left of the road that will take you to "Albercas Joe Bill" (Check this info on Google Maps for an exact location). Follow the dirt road, on the split turn right and follow the dirt road as it swivels its way up hill. Once you get to the top, turn left, and follow the road till you turn slightly right to a dead end, you'll see the northern side of the wall right in front of you. All vehicles can access the area, but be careful after a rainy day; the road is not that great, and after heavy rain, the road gets really muddy, and in some parts it gets washed away, leaving ditches all over the road, so proceed with caution.