Climbing Near Eldorado, Oklahoma

Specifically known as Baldy Point Climbing Area within Quartz Mountain State Park (QMSP).Most routes at this winter spot see shade only early in the morning and then sun almost all day long. World class granite will test your friction skills and the bold routes will test your nerve. RX climbing at its best. The locals are a very friendly, tight knit community who all seem to share a kinship with the "rock in the farmer’s wheatfield".Please be sure to pack out all your trash, avoid impacting any sensitive areas, and leave your hammer-n-nails or your drills at home. All the climbing is clean and new fixed pro requires pre-authorization from QMSP who reviews bolting applications with the WMCC’s Quartz Bolting Committee. You can email the QBC at abc.wmcc@gmail.com for information on the bolting application process.Be warned that most lines designated as “sport” here on mountain project just mean that it is only bolt protected and there are unlikely to be any opportunities for natural gear. It does NOT guarantee the route to be a safe sport route. Here at Quartz long runouts are common. From Altus, OK, drive north on 283/6 about 20 miles till you intersect with 44 where you will take a right. 4-5 miles until you will see a left turn for Quartz Mountain on 44a which you take for about 3 miles staying to the left until you cross a small creek with a wellhouse on the right (this dirt road will take you straight over to the base but is rough and can be muddy) which you pass up looking for the next paved right. The sign here has been removed due to the repave job as of Fall 2007. Taking this paved road north a mile take another right which is still clearly marked, over to the wall and park in the lot next to the picnic tables. The latest guide is Oklahoma Rock A Climber's Guide by Tony Mayse. Available at most local gyms and shops, as well as at Sharp End Books. "I've been to the Valley, Yosemite, but the face climbing at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma is much better." The rock at Quartz had been a pleasant surprise, but the climbs were downright unbelievable, bold to a standard seldom seen elsewhere. They bespoke committed vision backed solidly by technique--the boys had learned a lot since the days of leather belts and moldy ropes--and seemingly unshakable mind control. Scanning the guidebook, I could see many such routes designated by an "xx" after the rating. The definition was chilling: "xx means a ground fall is very possible." Read the full story here at the WMCC site Rope: A 70m rope is really helpful at Quartz as there is a descent route from most areas that can be done with 1 (or sometimes 2) rap(s) using a single 70m, rather than one rappel using 2 ropes. A few exceptions like South America wall exist, and will require 2 ropes anyway. Always knot your rope ends and when in doubt, trail a second rope!Rack: many of the routes have few enough protection opportunites to make use of more than a single rack, but some of the easier crack are long enough that you could make use of doubles in every size. 6-12 draws/slings for clipping bolts and extending gear placements. It’s handy to have a couple locking draws for extra reassurance on the sparsely bolted slabs. When in doubt take extra gear. Camping is available at Quartz Mountain Nature Parkhttps://www.travelok.com/listings/view.profile/id.6151There is no overnight camping/parking at Mount Baldy, with 2 exceptions. The annual Fall Gathering (typically the first weekend of November) and the Spring Fling (typically the first weekend of April). These dates can vary.

Just inside the woods from the parking area East of the parking lot

The oblong boulder with the sloping polished side facing the trail. get out of the car