Climbing Near El Durazno de Cuauhtémoc, México

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This amazing sport climbing area is located in a beautiful oak forest about a 2 hour drive north west of Mexico City. There are 150 or more sport routes here from 5.5 to 5.14. The main attraction is 'El Huevo', an enormous egg shaped monolith with climbing on all sides. The towering and steep north facing side has awesome rock quality and hosts the sectors 'Dia de Campo' and '¡Ay Nanita!'. There are many other great sectors surrounding as well, with interesting and unique cobble climbing. The rock is volcanic; a mixture of consolidated ash and cobbles. It's reminiscent of Maple Canyon at times, a hint of Smith Rock, and also a touch of the Flatirons. Each sector has a bit of unique flavor.  The area is a maintained park and as of Dec 2025, the user fee was 50 pesos/day/person (about $2.50USD/person/day) make sure to bring cash!  On the weekends you can expect to find a good number of climbers here - largely traveling from Mexico City and surrounding areas - but you'll also find families, locals and those just coming to watch the action. The vibes are always great.You can camp at the parking area at the end of the road that is within mere feet of the climbs. There are picnic tables with roofs and bathrooms with flush toilets (bring your own TP and drinking water). There are also plenty of options for Air BnB or Hotels in Jilotepec. I would recommend staying as close to the crag as possible - navigating the roads around Jilo can be arduous at times with random closures and a seemingly endless number of aggressive speed bumps. The Jilotepec climbing area (aka Peñas de Dexcani Alto) is covered on pages 113-127 of the Mexican Climbing Guide Center-South (March 2013). The crags are located roughly 10km southeast from the city of Jilotepec in the State of Mexico.