Climbing Near Cañoncito, New Mexico

A secluded and generally shady area about 20 minutes from Santa Fe. There are rarely any other climbers, but often hikers. Rock varies from excellent to total choss with problems ranging from V0 to V10 spread all along the canyon and the surrounding hillsides.The first area encountered includes an enormous, sandstone overhang with many variations. In the spring the stream can affect low starts. Opposite of the main overhang is a large boulder with several slab problems on the south side and the excellent Hello Panda  on the northern arete. Next to that boulder is another massive boulder with some high consequence, low 5th class slabs, some problems with chipped holds, and an excellent overhanging, crack-ish V3 problem on the west side. On the northern hillside above the main area is a tall band of rock with a few problems of varying quality, including The Geisha (V9).About 250 yards up the trail and 10 feet off the trail to the right is the mega classic V5 overhanging traverse, Energy Club.Up on the southern hillside from the main area (traverse up the hillside from the parking lot) is another zone with at least a dozen problems on mostly great rock. Take I-25 north from Santa Fe. Get off on exit 297 (Valencia). Go left underneath I-25 and get back on south bound, drive for about 1 1/2 miles and park in a large pull-off marked by a giant green road sign saying "Canoncito at Apache Canyon". At the north end of the parking lot, cross a drainage and follow trail for about 1/4 of a mile. Cant miss it.

The crag on Sierra Pelado Is often visible from I-25 on the southernmost extent of the ridge.  It is also visible on the skyline to the Northeast from a break in the trees 2/3 the way up La Barbaria Trail. The crag is granitic.   As you drive northward on I-25 from Albuquerque take the Old Pecos Trail exit on the East side of Santa Fe.  This is the third Santa Fe exit.  Turn left and cross the Interstate and immediately turn right on Old Las Vegas Highway, which is a frontage road to the freeway.  Continue for one mile then turn left on El Gancho Way. Turn right at the end of that road onto Old Santa Fe Trail.  In 1 1/4 miles turn left onto La Barbaria  Road. In 2 miles go left onto La Barbaria Trail.  Go about 3/4 miles to an area for fire crew parking a few hundred feet before a locked gate with metal cutouts of blue cowboy boots. Walk out ENE at right angles to the road for a short ways and you will find a minor trail.  Go left on the trail that ascends to the crag on Sierra Pelado.  The hike will take you about an hour.

Santa Fe, a major tourist destination, the oldest capital city in the US, offers a wealth of cultural and outdoor experiences, and a wide variety of year-round climbing.The nearest areas are:Rats Peak- conglomerate sport, toprope and boldering* Diablo Canyon - basalt sport and trad* Cochiti Mesa - once-famous pocket sport climbing* The Pecos - granite sport craggingOther areas with 1 hour include:* El Rito - cobble-y sport and easy 2-pitch trad* Taos - various types, sport & trad* White Rock - basalt sport and trad* Palomas Peak - limestone sport* The Sandias - mostly multipitch tradSeek out the sunny cliffs of areas like Diablo and Cochiti in the colder months; in the summer, head to the shaded valley of the Pecos or the shady cliffs at Diablo and Eagle Canyon.Camping The areas near most of the crags (Diablo, Cochiti) provide low-key opportunities for dirtbagging on public land. Be aware that the Pecos River Canyon has seen a lot of impact from camping. Lodging at various levels of luxury can be had in Santa Fe.Climbing Gym The Santa Fe Climbing Center (SFCC) offers indoor climbing for the evenings and the cold,snowy days in the winter. The SFCC has a very friendly and knowledgeable staff and also offers outdoor guiding at local areas.Gear The Santa Fe Climbing Center offers an ever-expanding selection of climbing gear including Black Diamond, Petzl and La Sportiva. The Santa Fe REI also has a decent selection of climbing gear. - Truchas Peaks: The Truchas Peaks area of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in Northern New Mexico offers a high abundance of quality, secluded hiking and mountain adventure. - Diablo Canyon: Single to multi-pitch, sport and trad, less than vertical to overhanging. A nice variety of climbing on excellent to poor quality basalt. - Capulin Canyon and Cochiti Mesa Area Crags: Think vertical pockets and monos. Technical climbing away from the crowds on a former destination sport climbing area. - Pecos River Canyon: Picturesque granite crag northeast of Santa Fe, NM. - Apache Canyon (a.k.a. Grasshopper Canyon) Bouldering: A large overhanging chunk of sandstone with at least 20 different variations. Just 20 minutes outside of Santa Fe. Head north of Albuquerque on I-25, you can't miss Santa Fe, the Capital of New Mexico!