Climbing Near Broadview, New Mexico

The El Malpais climbing area extends for twelve miles along Hwy 117 on the easern edge of the lower Grants lava flow from which the name was taken. The climbing is on soft sandstone and is comparable in quality to the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs. The area was first explored, starting in the Fall of 1975, by David Dahrling and David Baltz who had established thirteen moderate trad routes by December of 1976. Further action in the late '70s by Paul Horak, Mark Dalen, Charlie Ware led to additional routes, as well as visits by such out-of-state luminaries as Andrew Embick, and Earl Wiggins. Because of the intimidating nature of many of the lines, the area has seen very limited development since, in spite of the enormous potential. The vast majority of the established routes are crack climbs, entirely unlike the uniform cracks of the Indian Creek variety, but of a more varied and technical nature. Due to the soft rock, bolts and other fixed protection are rarely encountered, but nuts and cams work well. There is also excellent bouldering, the approaches are short--at most fifteen minutes from the car--and the climbing season runs from February through November. One note about local ethics: The Malpais has traditionally been a 'ground up' area. What few bolts and fixed pins that exist were placed on the lead. Due to the soft nature of the rock, the wilderness area partially covering the major walls, and Acoma reservation, sport routes are strongly discouraged. Drive west on Interstate-40 from Albuquerque to the Hwy 117 exit four miles short of Grants. Drive south on Hwy 117 for 4 miles until past the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook turnoff. The first few miles are part of the Acoma Reservation and marked 'No Trespassing' even though much of the area is public land (National Monument and designated wilderness). As one approached the largest natural arch in the state, a sign will mark the beginning of unrestricted climbing.

Areas between I-40 to the north and Hwy 60 to the southwest and HWY 380 to the southeast that are not located around "large" population centers. Access by state roads off of I-40

A two-pitch tower along I-40, that has a classic route on it. It has appeared on the cover of numerous general travel guides to NM. The best way to access the base of Churchrock is from Red Rock State Park, in the town of Churchrock just off I-40 east of Gallup. Leave the interstate at exit 26 (if coming from the west) or exit 33 (if coming from the east) and follow the frontage road and signs to Red Rock State Park. The trail starts from the Post Office in the park (not the Pyramid Trail). Park your car at the Post Office and walk north towards the redrock; you'll see the trail sign. The trail is marked along its length with LARGE cairns (thanks to Gallup YCC) and winds generally north through the gullies. After about a mile, the main trail bends east and heads away from Churchrock, following a prominent bench of pink rimrock. There is a small side trail marked with a small cairn that splits off at this point to head directly towards Churchrock. Follow this trail; it dissolves into a maze of animal tracks, but will eventually lead you past the west side of Churchrock. Circle around and scramble up easy slickrock (2nd class max) on the north side to access the tower. This approach takes maybe 30-40 mins if you don't get lost. It also allows you to stay on public land rather than traipsing through private property, so PLEASE go this way. (Per comment below from Alex Nees)