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Diebesloch (Thieves' Cave) Guidebooks

International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura

Frankenjura Extreme

Frankenjura Extreme

Sebastian Schwertner

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Last but not least is this small and abridged guidebook from Sebastian Schwertner, written for extreme climbers. This guidebook details, in English, the places you'll want to go in the northern Frankenjura if you warm up on 5.11. It is definitely written for the visiting climber and is therefore probably the best guidebook for the area for those of you thinking of coming for a visit. If you're interested in buying it beforehand you can get it at the given link, or I'll sell you my copy for €5 and you can pick it up from me when you get here.
To clarify, the book provides directions and descriptions for hard crags, which also often contain easier routes. So it's not exclusively for hard climbs.

Northern Frankenjura Version 8

Northern Frankenjura

Bernhard Thum

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If you want it all in one volume, this is it. Though it was written in 2010, you've still got a lifetime's worth of routes here and don't need to fork out the €60 to get the brand new Schwertner guidebooks. The organization of this book is a little different from the rest as it doesn't need to divide the Frankenjura into two sections. Also, the book, as are the Schwertner books, is written entirely in German.

Frankenjura 2 Frankenjura 1

Northern Frankenjura 1 & 2

Ulrich & Harald Röker

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These are the only guidebooks which provide descriptions in English. Parts 1 and 2 are laid out very similarly to the corresponding "Band 1" and "Band 2" written by Sebastian Schwertner, however the topos are more 3 dimensional. These are also not as up to date as the Schwertner guidebooks.

Frankenjura Band 2.

Northern Frankenjura Part 2

Sebastian Schwertner

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This newest release from Sebastian Schwertner covers the southern areas of the northern Frankenjura. The areas described are: Walberla, Trubachtal, Betzensteiner Gebiet, Spieser Gebiet, Schnaittacher Gebiet, Pegnitztal, Krottenseer Forst, Hirschbachtal, Königsteiner Gebiet, Lehental, Högenbachtal, Förrenbachtal and Lauterbachtal. Unfortunately, the "areas" described here do not directly correspond to those here on MP. They are more generalized, whereas those here on MP tend to go parking parking lot, and then into further detail of which crags are accessed from these parking lots.

Frankenjura Band 1

Northern Frankenjura Part 1

Sebastian Schwertner

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This is the newest release from Sebastian Schwertner covering the northern half of the northern Frankenjura. The described areas are: Leinleitertal, Wiesenttal, Gößweinstein, Püttlachtal, Weihersbachtal, Klumpertal, Ailsbachtal, Paradiestal, Kaiserbachtal, Scheßlitzer Gebiete, Staffelberg, Kleinziegenfelder Tal, Bärental and Zillertal. Unfortunately, these "areas" don't have any correspondence with those included here on MP.

International : Europe

Europe Sport Vertical

Europe - Sport Vertical

By David Atchison-Jones, Jingo Wobbly Publishing

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This is an overview book that sets out to list every single crag on the European continent a la Tim Toula's "Rock N' Road". Intended for a broad audience of various languages, the book uses an absurdly complex assortment of symbols & numbers to "describe" each crag without the use of text. The book is in full color, with plentiful glossy photos of various crags. This isn't a guidebook in the classic sense, but it can be a good way to learn about the locations & raw statistics of the multitude of little known crags in Europe. The book indicates number of routes, height of cliff, length of approach, sun exposure, and relative quality for more than 2600 sport, bouldering & alpine crags. The book also points you in the direction of the pertinent local guidebooks. Its a nice reference book, but probably not too useful once you're on the road. Set it on the coffee table or near your procelain throne for a few minutes of inspiration when the local weather is bad.

Rock Climbing Europe by Stewart Green

Rock Climbing Europe

Stewart Green, Falcon Guides

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Rock Climbing Europe is the perfect starting point for Americans on their way to Europe. The book is far from comprehensive, so ensure that your destination is included before laying out $40 or so. If your destination is included, expect explicit, robust, American-style route descriptions (a rarity in European guides) & photo-topos, all prefaced with a good deal of "Lonely Planet"-style traveler information. The book also follows the Falcon Guide system of providing tips on lodging/camping and where to find amenities in the local area. The book is encyclopedic is size, so you may want to xerox the key sections if you're going for a short trip.


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