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Big Gully Guidebooks

North Carolina : Pilot Mountain

Carolina Rocks: The Piedmont

Author: Erica Lineberry Publisher: Earthbound Sports

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2015, 288 pages

The Piedmont region of North Carolina contains four distinct climbing areas; each with their own cultures and strengths.

Moore’s Wall is one of the best destinations in the east for steep trad climbing on perfect quartzite. As a bonus crowds are small with organized groups almost non-existent. Enjoy one to three pitch routes from moderate to hard core. Best Spring to Fall.

Stone Mountain is the east coast’s best friction area by far. Acres of unblemished granite make this a must do destination for slab aficionados. The setting is magical and the climbing amazing. Best October to March.

Crowder’s Mountain contains a large mix of trad, top rope, and sport climbing near North Carolina’s largest city. Best Fall to Spring.

Pilot Mountain is located minutes from Winston-Salem. Recent re-bolting efforts have contributed to the areas status as the States most popular climbing area with super-easy access to great top rope and sport climbing. Some trad routes area also available. Best Fall to Spring.

Climber's Guide Pilot Mountain State Park

Jeff Dillon - 2007

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Local climber Jeff Dillon has just published a new guide to climbing at Pilot Mountain. Other books that had information on Pilot, such the Kelley guide, have been out of print for some time, and hand-printed guides at the park itself have been of questionable accuracy. Dillon's new pamphlet-sized guide now fills this void.

In addition to the usual required information on routes and ratings, the Climber's Guide to Pilot Mountain State Park includes a nice color map of the different sections of the climbing area, as well as notations where climbing is prohibited. There's a handy summary of the different sections and hiking times to get to them, and a good selection of photos of the routes. A brief description of bouldering at Pilot Mountain is also included.

The Climber's Guide Pilot Mountain State Park is free and available for download from the Carolina Climbers Coalition web site (click on the "Purchase This" link above). You can also pick up a copy at the park ranger station.

North Carolina

Selected Climbs in North Carolina

Selected Climbs in North Carolina

Yon Lambert, Harrison Shull, The Mountaineers Books - 2002

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It would be hard to squeeze the huge volume of North Carolina climbing areas and routes into a single book, but Selected Climbs comes pretty close. Both Yon Lambert and Harrison Shull are longtime Carolina climbers, and they draw on their experience to outline the best routes of the state's numerous destinations. Some of the areas included are Linville Gorge, Stone Mountain and Rumbling Bald.

One great feature of Selected Climbs is its topos. These diagrams show not only the selected routes described in each climbing area; they also outline routes which didn't get written up. The guide also includes fascinating reading on the history of route development in each area, and numerous great photos by Shull (who is a professional outdoor photographer) of climbers on the rock.

Selected Climbs in North Carolina is available at area climbing stores, or online at the publisher's website (see link above).