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Morro Dona Marta
International
> S America
> Brazil
> Rio de Janeiro
Description
A mostly North/Northwest facing crag with classically (re runout) bolted multipitch friction climbing. Climbs that top out are between 150 and 250 meters, but there are some that stop part way up and some single pitch climbs. Most of the routes can be rappelled.
There has been recent route development since 2019. The new routes are generously bolted by Rio standards and tend to have two bolt belays, whereas the older routes tend to be from the 70s, can be runout, and are likely to have single bolt belays.
This area does not seem to be very popular, so if you're in town for some time and want to escape weekend crowds, Dona Marta may be worth a visit!
Some beta can also be found here: escaladas.com.br/local/id/3…
Getting There
The approach trail starts at the end of Rua EfigĂȘnio Sales. Hang a left into a steep drainage gully. At the time of writing you'll encounter two blue insulated wires as makeshift handlines to aid in particularly steep parts, but they're not strictly necessary. These aid in climbing out of the drainage ditch and onto an old concrete stairway. Follow the stairway until it gives way to a good trail. Take a left at a T that leads to a fence marked as private property. Follow this fence to a corner then turn left to go downhill and continue following the fence. You'll come to another concrete stairway, which you'll take to continue down hill until it leads to a concrete spillway. Turn right to take the spillway uphill, which will take you straight to the base of the cliff with some bolted lines! The trail continues left along the cliff line to more routes.
See pictures for more approach beta.
Routes from Left to Right
Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
●
Ovos Na Chapa
|
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 6 pitches
|
●
Fissura Esquecida
|
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
[Hide Photo] The start of the approach trail is on the left of the metal driveway