Piney Bowl Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 1,016 ft | 310 m |
| GPS: |
35.75184, -93.27923 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 454 total · 30/month | |
| Shared By: | Kyle Rowden on Nov 14, 2024 | |
| Admins: | Tyler KC, JD Borgeson |
Description
If you can catch this crag in the shoulder seasons or on a 40-50 degree winter day this crag is pure magic. Generally an east facing crag that offers sun and shade but generally is shaded after 10-11am Fall thru Spring.
Getting There
There are two ways to access Piney Bowl:
High Clearance Vehicles (River Road Access):
Southern Approach (Rock Creek Parking):
Low Water: Drive Approach on Newton County Road 311 (Aka River Road) either from Rock Creek (Southern Route) or from Limestone (Northern Route). Park down a short two-track spur off County Rd 311 at ( 35.752231°, -93.276007°) that dead ends on a gravel bar and campsite. From Rock Creek Camping, drive
Northern Approach (Limestone):
Driving Hwy 16 turn south on County Road 29 between the Deer Water Association and Deer Cemetery. Follow a well maintained two-lane gravel road south for ~4.6miles and turn (south) left on a dirt/gravel road 311 (if it has a road sign). Follow this road over a low-water crossing and several residences, past "Ozark Wilderness Lodge" and a new development for ~2.9 miles past multiple large mud puddles, washouts, and landslides to make a sharp right-hand turn into the primitive Piney Bowl campsite. You must have high clearance and 4x4 is strongly recommended. This road has washed out and been occasionally roughed back in by Newton County or Forest Service every few years. For those that know how to navigate bad roads and not get stuck, this is the fastest way from NWA but by far the gnarliest if you don't have your beta dialed.
Southern Route (Rock Creek): Approach Rock Creek from Ft. Douglas, Rosetta, or Parker Ridge. From Rock Creek parking/camping, continue north along the river road crossing over Rock Creek proper and driving ~0.8 miles over a bouldery/chunky rocky road. High Clearance is strongly recommended. Turn left into a short spur that takes you down to a bouldery/gravel bar that is the Piney Bowl Parking/Campsite.
River Levels:
Use USGS River Gauge for Big Piney - Big Piney Creek at Highway 164 near Dover, AR - 07257006 either through a River Gauge App or direct from USGS Website: waterdata.usgs.gov/monitori…;period=P7D&showMedian=false
<1ft: You can rock hop and not get your feet wet
1.0-3.0ft: This is wadable at a location about 100yds down stream from the campsite. Crossing At: (35.752387°, -93.276638°) Aim for a large sycamore tree on the west bank. At the time of writing the Big Piney Approach trail is faint. Climb up from large Sycamore up a steep sand bank and walk through river cane. Walk straight west across the old river terrace to shale hillside, switch back up and look for a well beat in foot trail that takes you up a gentle grade moving W-SW to the Warmup Wall.
Highwater:
- Raft: Using a Raft or Canoe/Kayak park further up River Road at Shady Grove Parking and launch in between DWS boulder clusters ( 35.753090°, -93.275071°). Use boulders to buffer against current and aim at large sand bar. This method is strongly advised over launching directly from Campsite because river currents can be deceptively fast and this is a very safe method for traversing in all highwater conditions. Bring PFD!
(Low Clearance Access):
- Rosetta Trail: Highwater or Low Clearance vehicle crag trail. Come in from Newton County Rd 456 and park at ( 35.749114°, -93.286949°). follow a steep trail off the top of the mountain. 20min down and 40min back up. This access is also the recommendation for Low Clearance Vehicles.
Classic Climbing Routes at Piney Bowl
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