ECC Rock Climbing

The main climbing area at La Bajada Canyon is the El Camino Real Cave, a gargantuan pour-over amphitheater with mostly wild steep lines up to 40m long. A 70m rope is necessary for many routes, especially those with extensions, due to the steepness of the wall whereby the lower-off is a shorter distance than the length of the route (hypotenuse vs. side of a triangle). Only a couple routes require longer than a 70m, unless you are savvy enough (read the route description) to know to lower through some fixed draws. Fixed draws are very common on this crag as retrieving your personal draws from any route would be a major effort. However, not every bolt is equipped, so know before you go!

There are not many routes under 5.11, and those in the 5.10 range are not considered easy for the grade. With the loose, steep, and sometimes glassy rock here, many will not find the climbing to their liking. The easier routes tend to be on the more vertical rock on the east and west peripheries of the crag. There are sometimes more than one option to approach an upper extension, and sometimes more than one extension option from the same start. Make sure you have the necessary information for the route before you leave the ground. For example, the central line of the amphitheater is the eponymous El Camino Real (5.12), an upper pitch with unique movement that reaches all the way to the rim (see lower-off beta!). Note that you must first climb one of two 12b pitches to reach this upper extension. Once you start up the ECR extension, after the second fixed draw, you'll see an option to also traverse right into the Jornada Bypass, a 12+ version of Jornada del Muerto (5.13), essentially avoiding its 5.13 lower crux section. Note that in either case, there is no fixed option for a mid-belay, it is intended to be run in one 40m length, and you may need at least 4 or 5 draws for ECR. All said, if you choose to climb either line it will prove to be an unforgettable experience, in one way or another. 

Many of the routes start in a poorly consolidated band of breccia or sediment that needs to be carefully navigated to get to the competent rock; please move gently through this band and DON'T TRUNDLE ANYTHING. The first bolt, therefore, is often high and precarious. There is a community stick clip available for folks to use. Please be respectful and take good care with it (don't drop it or lean it against a wall to fall and break, always fold it back up between each use). If you do break it, be sure to replace it, or let someone know that its broke. The fixed draws were all installed with the intention to provide the most practical clipping stance for most people. I get that everyone is different, so if you plan to add extensions to any fixed draws, make sure to clean them before you leave, or at least to make sure they don't get left up for the entire season as not everyone needs or wants that 24" extension to the clip. We have had to take some down, especially when the nylon becomes bleached, and its not always easy to find the owner. 

Be courteous with respect to volume of conversations and general noise. The sound can bounce around the amphitheater quite efficiently, and when two or more people are high up on a route, the conversation between belayer and climber can become jumbled fast. The days when you are not the only party, be mindful of noise and volume and make sure to respect when a fellow climber or belayer is trying to communicate. 

Lastly, there are inherent hazards here. The precarious nature of parts of the crag base could lead to a bad fall. There are loose rocks. There are seasonal rattlesnakes. Be safe and facilitate a welcoming environment and have a fun attitude. This is a precious resource for the local community and visitors alike.