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Petit Clocher du Portalet

International > Europe > Switzerland > Unterwallis (Lower Va…

Description

This might be one of the best granite monoliths in Europe. It's a truly inspiring face of high-quality orange granite featuring fantastic crack systems.

Getting There

There are several ways to get to the toe of the d'Orny Glacier, where the approach begins. The one that requires the least effort is to take a lift from the bus stop "Champex (télésiège)." Take the lift (or hike) to reach Grands Plans. From here, hike along the well-marked trail. When you see Cabane d'Orny on up ahead, you will see the Petit Clocher du Portalet on your left. Cross the toe of the glacier and work your way across to a path that traverses along to the base of the Petit Clocher du Portalet. As of July 2024, there was a fixed line to help traverse the loose sandy section as you approached the north face. To get to the other faces, continue along the same path. There are two bolts along the way to the east face and another three to protect the step around the corner to reach the south face.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
Chic, chèque, choc
Trad 7 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
Esprit de Clocher
Trad 8 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 1
État de Choc
Trad 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chic, chèque, choc
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 7 pitches
Esprit de Clocher
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 8 pitches
État de Choc
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 9 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Its a fantastic rock.
[Hide Photo] Its a fantastic rock.
View from Cabane d'Orny
[Hide Photo] View from Cabane d'Orny