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Bernia Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Bernia

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Bernia Ridge, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Elevation:	3,136 ft	956 m
GPS:	38.66227, -0.05513 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	64 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Jack Copland on Mar 11, 2024
Admins:	Jason Halladay, David Riley Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The Bernia ridge dominates the skyline above Calp and is a prized objective for any scrambler or mountain ridge climber. The ridge itself is the main draw to this area but there are a number a smaller crags in the area with routes mostly in the 5.12+ range including the spectacular 'The Magic Flute' (5.12b).

Getting There

The climbing crags are accessed via a turn off from the CV-755. Head north out of Altea la Vella for about 2km and turn right up a smaller side ride signposted to 'Serra de Bernia' and 'Fort de Bernia' that dederiorates in quality as you approach the crags.

For the Ridge (from Calp or Alicante) get on the AP-7 north to junction 63 and exit south through Benissa then turn right towards Xalo/Jalon. Immediatly turn left uphill towards Pinos. Take this road for 7km then take a left to the parking area next to a restaurant. From here follow a trail up through the wooded slopes to a font. From here you can follow yellow and white striped painted rocks to the base of the ridge where a hole goes right through the ridge to the other side (an awesome feature). The path now scrambles up to a col on the ridge above.