Sunny, no access issues, never crowded, rock quality is good but climbs are short.

"There's a place so very far

...We can get there as long as it's by stolen car*" - GWARR

*(First ascentionists do not condone approaching via stolen car)

The land of 1 star routes. This is a small climbing area consisting of columnar basalt in a dry canyon bed on BLM land. Similar to the dry canyon in Redmond. The climbing is also akin to Cline Falls further to the south. Most of the routes here are boulder problems or short sport/trad routes. It is a sunny and warm area, although one side of the canyon will be in the shade in either am or pm, so it is possible to choose shade vs sun. It is a good place to escape the crowds at Smith (contingency plan if the parking lot is full) in the fall, winter or spring. Summer is typically hot unless you come in the early morning or evening.

The southern end of the canyon has a nice 10-15 foot high wall that makes for a good traversing boulder area with lots of variations on the routes ranging from V0 - V4. There are a couple of short sport crags; Metalocolypse Wall, and Full Metal Alchemist Wall. In total there are a little more than 10 established sport routes. Other noteworthy climbs are Meat Sandwich (V3) , and Rock Bong (V7)

Most of the routes were bolted in 2020 during the pandemic when Smith was closed. There were signs of earlier development, but that history is unknown and when the 2020 crew showed up, hangers were mostly missing on old routes. Top rope anchors were re-equipped and lead access was added to some pre-existing routes. There is lots of OHV traffic in this area, so be considerate and mindful that there may be dirt bikes, quads, side by sides, etc. in the large network of trails nearby. The canyon itself is closed to OHV traffic, but the signage frequently gets removed and this rule doesn't always seem to be enforced or followed.

From Terrebonne, take NW Lower Bridge Way and head west towards Crooked River Ranch. Drive past NW 43rd St and continue heading west towards Borden Beck Wildlife Preserve. Just before NW Quail Rd. turn off onto one of the dirt roads to your left (there are many, some are better than others, see overview map in the area photos for the best route in). Looking from a skyview on google earth or maps, the climbing is in a dry canyon adjacent to where the Deschutes takes a hard dogleg turn from North to West

Most accessible parking is located here:

44°21'41"N 121°15'18"W

If you want the shortest approach possible, and you have some vehicle clearance you can get within 100 yards of one of the better bouldering warmup areas "The Test You Take to get the License for your Car"

44°21'30"N 121°15'11"W