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Erin's Tower Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Erin's Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blunderbuss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hollow Point T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mark Turds T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Momary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sniper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Elevation:	8,330 ft	2,539 m
GPS:	39.29392, -105.13137 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	447 total · 37/month
Shared By:	Kent Pease on Dec 9, 2023 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is an isolated rock on a ridge 6 miles (as a crow flies) NE of Deckers and 2.5 to 3 miles SSE of the Noddle Heads (see the vicinity map in the photos). It is ¾ mile north of Campbell Mountain and on the same ridge. Two climbs (Mark Turds and Momary) are in the 2012 Haas, et al, guidebook, and one other climb is known prior to 2023 which is reported to have bolted anchor(s?) but is not listed here. The routes are predominantly cracks varying from very short to two pitches on moderate quality rock.

The base elevation of the rock is around 8,400 feet, so it is 10 to 15 degrees cooler than the flats, and the Magazine Area containing several quality climbs is in an alcove which is almost always shady.

Getting There

From Sedalia, drive SW on CO 67 about 20 miles (a very crude estimate) veering left at Sprucewood. About a mile before CO 67 turns west toward the S. Platte River, the rock can be briefly seen to the SE through the trees. The approach is easiest by hiking directly (mostly east) up from the road, although a route beginning up the Deep Creek drainage then veering off to the south as the terrain allows has been done and is reported to be brushy or worse (see the approach map in the photos). There’s no trail or identifiers for the approach, so using GPS coordinates is crucial (coordinates are for North end and West side of the rock). The approach is only about ½ mile as the crow flies but with a 1,200 foot elevation gain, so it takes about an hour.

A complication is that parking along CO 67 is not permitted except in designated spots, and your vehicle could be ticketed. The nearest designated parking spot is the Sugar Creek/Noddle Trailhead over two miles back north.