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Palm Springs Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Palm Springs Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	If I Had A Hammer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Logistics Meeting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tropical Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	7,295 ft	2,224 m
GPS:	48.60561, -113.76419 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	571 total · 20/month
Shared By:	David Steele on Jul 9, 2023 · Updates
Admins:	GRK, Zach Wahrer Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

What, more climbing in Glacier?

The relatively solid rock (compact, with a higher than average quartz content) found on the Little Matterhorn carries through to the Sperry and Ellen Wilson basins. Palm Springs Buttress features up to 800ish feet of it, full of cracks, roofs, nice belay ledges. Not to mention the exceptional setting in a hanging alpine valley with the lake twinkling at you below.

Palm Springs Buttress currently has three routes, with incredible potential for anyone willing to make the approach. Note that the climbing is of an alpine character, and you'll find loose rock and adventure up here.

Getting There

This is not a small approach. One way, from Lake McDonald, you're looking at 8 miles and 4000ft of gain. Nearly all of that is on the Gunsight Pass Trail, with perhaps a quarter mile of off trail cruising uphill through beargrass slopes to get up to the rock. You could also approach from Jackson Glacier overlook, which would be something like 13 miles and 3500ft of gain, but that is not recommended.

Take the trail to the Lake Ellen Wilson Basin. Palm Springs is the major central buttress, making it the second one you encounter if coming eastbound from Lake McDonald and Sperry. Break off the trail when you get near and ascend through open, beargrassy slopes up to the buttress.

Since access comes from the Going to the Sun Road, you'll need either an early start to make it into the entrance before 6am, or a reservation to travel the road, which you can pick up at Recreation.gov. We'd recommend the early start.

Snagging a permit for overnighting in the Sperry or Ellen Wilson backcountry campgrounds cuts down on big walk. Sperry might be less distance to carry an overnight pack, but Ellen Wilson has a beach and swimming. Suit your fancy or what's available.