Elevation: | 376 ft | 115 m |
GPS: |
39.63494, -76.64893 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 278 total · 17/month | |
Shared By: | Jim Borton on Jul 1, 2023 | |
Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
Description
The Gorge is set of little crags overlooking Little Gunpowder Falls. It has two primary features--the Whale and the Squid.
The Whale is a long east-facing slab, similar to other fin-like crags in the Gunpowder. If you use your imagination, the lower end resembles a big sea creature. The Whale is never more than 30-40 feet high, but it yields a Gunpowder-style rising girdle traverse about 60 feet long.
The Squid is large blob of freaky-looking rock. Despite its appearance much of the rock is solid and protectible. Classic Gunpowder climbing—lichen, moss, and mud. What’s not to love? The south west face of the Squid has several crack climbs. Cruxes are generally down low.
Just as the Whale, the Squid offers a girdle traverse moving left and across the main face and along a ledge to a headwall that finishes in small right-facing corner. Along the way are several other leadable routes and top-rope climbs.
Most climbs are 25 to 35 feet in length. The rock is sharp and generally solid. Protection is there. Hexes and Tricams are handy. Be creative.
As of June, 2023 there is evidence of bouldering but not of roped climbing, as near as we can tell. Gardening is needed on the shaded side of the Squid.
Getting There
Park at the Parkton access to the NCR Trail, just off of York Road north of Hereford. Hike south for about 15 minutes on the trail following Little Gunpowder Falls and its lovely cascades and whitewater. On your right will be a small gorge and a blocky cliff on the south bank. Class II whitewater spills into a large pool.
On your left is a wooden fence. At the end of the fence enter the woods. Hike up a steep slope for several minutes, passing large and freakish boulders and slabs to your left. The terrain levels off to your left. Here you’ll find a pleasant flat area between the beasts—the Squid, to your left, and the Whale, to your right.
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