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Topknot Dome Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Topknot Dome

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Electric Hornet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

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Elevation:	4,855 ft	1,480 m
GPS:	31.98591, -111.52872 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	376 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Aaron Davis on Nov 20, 2022
Admins:	adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! Dogs Not allowed Details

The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon. Dogs are not allowed per land owner request.

READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…

Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:

Extended Access Info

Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.

You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.

Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.

Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.

Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!

Description

Topknot Dome is an amazing fin of rock whose continuous buttress is over 900’ long! This formation is quite elusive, hiding behind hills, ridges and other rocks way up main drainage. This formation is impossible to see until you’re directly under it or if you’re climbing something past it. If the Trunk is too busy and you’re needing something a little more secluded, this one might be for you.

Getting There

The approach is about 2.5 hours up the main drainage, past the Elephant, past Table, waaay up there. Just stay in the drainage. At some point, a ridge of towers drops down towards the drainage on the North side. Topknot is behind this ridge. Leave the drainage and head towards the lowest little tower and go around the foot of it. Zig zag and bushwack your way up to your now viewable objective.