The Spy Gully Bouldering Climbing
Elevation: | 6,760 ft | 2,060 m |
GPS: |
39.99201, -105.29322 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 410 total · 16/month | |
Shared By: | Evan McCormick on Nov 9, 2022 | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
The small valley in between The Spy, First Flatiron, and First Flatironette offers some interesting bouldering opportunities for those looking to make FAs close to Boulder (and those with enough gusto to trek there with pads). There is a 35 degree overhang beneath the First Flatironette, which I've taken to calling Mission: Impossiwall, along with a mix of boulders to the south, and some nice traverses and climbs on the south side of The Spy.
Getting There
Start at Gregory Canyon Trailhead, and head up the Amphitheatre Trail. Turn left onto a somewhat hidden climber's trail directly across from the first large (about 16 foot tall) boulder on your right (if you reach The Amphitheatre, you've gone too far on that trail. Double back, and look for the boulder and the climber's trail). Hike up the trail almost dead south, up the north slope leading to the First Flatiron. Eventually you will reach the base of The Spy. Hike up to the top of The Spy (with The Spy directly to your left as you ascend), and cross in over a small notch. You can also solo in from the base of The Spy, or by going up the First Flatironette, but it's very exposed, and I wouldn't recommend doing it with crashpads.
Edit: after making multiple treks up to the area, I must begrudgingly admit that following the Bluebird-Bell Trail to the First Flatiron climbing access point is significantly less strenuous and probably faster unless you're a strong and seasoned trail-runner/scrambler, ESPECIALLY if you're trying to haul up 4+ crashpads. The climber's trail leading directly to the First Flatiron is long and steep, and I had to sit down, rest, and chug water 4 times the last time I went up with crashpads. If you're just there to solo or your gear only consists of rope and anchors, then you're probably okay taking the climber's trail.
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