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The Scrap Yard

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood Canyon

Description

As the name implies, a scrappy 35' panel of overhung rock broken by a ledge 10' up. Littered with micro cracks and tenuous holds. This wall was established as a dedicated drytooling venue so that folks will not use existing rock routes anywhere else in the canyons. A lot of graffiti was washed off, 6 gallon bags of glass removed, 50' of copper wire strung up in the trees taken down and two makeshift fire rings disassembled to make this a useable area. At the moment, it is TR only. There are four routes and two long traversing boulder problems. Grades are in the M6 to M9- range. 

I encourage everybody to try and pick up glass & trash when you visit as there is still a ton of it littered throughout the area.

Getting There

Park either at the Remnants of the Ancient Sea pull-off or down canyon on the right immediately before the bridge. Walk along the trail for 200' as if approaching Creekside Crag, hang a left at the opening in the trees and walk to the second panel of rock. This is The Scrap Yard.

To access the TR anchors, walk up a rock ramp before rounding the corner to creekside and work your way up some class four rock. Once about 20' up, traverse across the slab for 50' and aim for the big bush and two very large boulders on the ledge below. The anchors are on the west-facing side of these boulder, the area to access them is flat.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Updated anchor hangers
[Hide Photo] Updated anchor hangers
Taken from approximately where Alex was in the last photo here we see Alex standing beside the bolts on the wall to his right!
[Hide Photo] Taken from approximately where Alex was in the last photo here we see Alex standing beside the bolts on the wall to his right!
messing around at the bottom
[Hide Photo] messing around at the bottom
Crack City - Blue
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I'm Not Scared - Red
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Wasp Horror - Yellow
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Dirty Jug - Purple
[Hide Photo] Crack City - Blue I'm Not Scared - Red Wasp Horror - Yellow Dirty Jug - Purple
start of crack attack
[Hide Photo] start of crack attack
From the top of the ramp, looking over at Alex questing out towards the anchors.
[Hide Photo] From the top of the ramp, looking over at Alex questing out towards the anchors.
Updated anchor and spinning bolt (to be replaced)
[Hide Photo] Updated anchor and spinning bolt (to be replaced)
Mantis Traverse L to R - Blue
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Mantis Traverse R to L - Pink
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Crack Attack - Yellow
[Hide Photo] Mantis Traverse L to R - Blue Mantis Traverse R to L - Pink Crack Attack - Yellow

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kai Larson
Sandy, UT
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the work developing this area (and sharing it on MP.)

You folks are awesome. Nov 3, 2022
Anus Herder
Freedom, Wy
[Hide Comment] Scrap Yard provides, you can set up a TR pretty easily to the right of the climbing wall using common sense and good judgement! Jul 9, 2023
NateC
Utah
[Hide Comment] This is a fun little area for a drytooling workout. While the routes are short, the steepness allows for a good pump and keeps the climber safe when falling.

There are two sets of anchors that all routes here share as of 10/13/23. One of the sets of anchors is missing a hanger. My partner and I attempted to replace the hanger and nut but the bolt is a spinner and needs replaced. I'm hoping to borrow a drill and replace the bolt in the near future. I'll update the area once that is done. Oct 14, 2023
NathanC
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] A bolt was added to the right side (now middle) anchor station. I didn't have the hardware on-hand to make it pretty, just a few quick links, and will rejigger it next time I'm up Nov 15, 2025